The SOMM Journal

April / May 2017

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52 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2017 { the view from blue } THE MAIN HALL OF San Francisco's Legion of Honor, surrounded by sinewy, massive Auguste Rodin bronzes, was an appropriately grandiose setting for the introduction of the 2014 wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. There, sur - rounded by about 50 lucky invited tasters, the elegant Aubert de Villaine, Co-Director of the Domaine, presented his eight brilliant wines from this lovely vintage, which are now available on the market. In contrast to the rather austere and closed wines of 2013, these 2014s are bright, generous and showing exuberant character—they are young but definitely ready for their close-up. It was not an uneventful vintage—there were storms, wind and heat—but the end result was a large crop and one that matured beauti - fully. The whites are particularly excellent. Corton Grand Cru (SRP $535–680) The Domaine has leased about five acres of the Grand Cru Prince Florent de Mérode vineyard since 2008. The wine has slightly brickish color and notes of earth, spice and berries on the nose; there is a smoky undertone with silky and fresh style; lovely structure, fine balance and length. 93 Échézeaux Grand Cru (SRP $620– 700) Described as "the most forward" of all the Domaine wines. Deep ruby color with spice, ripe cherry and graceful char - acter in the nose; showing notes of earth and silky texture; aspiring to equal its big brother and coming very close this year. Deep and lush. 94 Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru (SRP $960–1100) Reflecting some of the character of its little brother above, this wine is truly "grand" with deep, dark ruby color and spice; lush black cherry fruit and complex forest floor notes; elegant, rich, layered and dense; soft tannins and great balance and length. 95 Romanée-St-Vivant (SRP $1650–1800) I don't know why I'm always surprised by the grace and depth of this wine. It has deep, dark ruby color; lush spice and a rich cherry nose. It is silky, smooth and pure with great flirtatious style—the embodiment of the "iron fist in a velvet glove." 96 Richebourg Grand Cru (SRP $1600– 1750) A worthy escort to its neighbor, La Romanée-Conti, powerful and juicy, forward, rich and complete; dense, elegant and long with a blithe, confident, insouciant style; long and smooth. 96 La Tâche Grand Cru (SRP $1950–2100) The Domaine's largest vineyard (15 acres) produces an elegant, intense wine with deep ruby color and hints of brown sugar; it has all the finesse and character of the previous wines only more so; stunning and profound; complex and savory with ripe fruit and great balance; sophisticated and generous. 97 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (SRP $5650–5800) Restrained and elegant; always the most reserved of the wines, only to blossom considerably later ; a late bloomer that is deep, complex and long; graceful and savory with lovely balance; this one will reward patience. 96 Montrachet Grand Cru (SRP $3545– 3700) This wine is always poured last at a DRC tasting, probably because this is the richest of the lot. Greenish gold color ; ripe pear, fig and citrus with vanilla and sweet toasty oak; an astonishing wine with grace, depth and finesse. This one will greatly reward patience as well. 98 I remarked to Aubert de Villaine how impressed I was with all eight wines. "Yes," he said, "but wait until you taste the 2015s; they're even better." The Legion of Honor Museum, with its Rodin sculptures, provided a suitably grand space for the tasting. (above) Aubert de Villaine, Co-Director of DRC. AUBERT DE VILLAINE PRESENTS THE 2014 VINTAGE IN SAN FRANCISCO by Anthony Dias Blue DRC Comes to Town

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