The SOMM Journal

April / May 2017

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90 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2017 { cellar view } THE MERE MENTION OF California Cabernet Sauvignon conjures up a dream list of ten or so high-end producers; for more somms, one that that immediately comes to mind is Caymus Vineyards. The Somm Journal's Editor-in-Chief Anthony Dias Blue hosted an intimate tasting of Caymus Special Selection during which second-generation family owner Chuck Wagner led a panel of Los Angeles somms and buyers through vintages dating back to 1990. "The 1990 is a spectacular wine to show. It was Wine Spectator 's Wine of the Year," shared Wagner. While certainly showing its 27-year age, the wine was remarkably charming. Classic aged California Cabernet Sauvignon characteristics of cedar and pine accompanied the tertiary fruit, redolent of red plums. Wagner comments, "The entry of this wine is surprisingly fresh. While the texture has thinned, the fruit and acid are balanced." The 1994 seemed a little closed; perhaps hibernating for the time being, the wine exhib - ited a much darker hue, suggesting that it is not a wine past its prime but just in a muted stage. Moving on to the 1999, Blue stated, "For me, it's a transitional wine. I know we're going to get right where we want to be soon." The wine showed a beautiful combination of developing aromas and yet a sound body and a beautifully integrated structure. As we approach the 2003, it is clear that the style has changed. This wine is opaque and full-bodied. The fruit is ripe and plush—this is a big, opulent wine. Wagner shares that the 2001 vintage marked a distinct transition in their winemaking style. "We decided that we wanted to pick later to avoid any bitterness; picking later gives more texture and fine cocoa tannins." The 2003 is also three-quarters of a percentage point higher in alcohol—this contributes to the mouthfeel with more glycerol—and the chocolate component from riper tannins is readily apparent. The tasting panel (left to right): Mary Thompson, ex–The Line Hotel (new project TBA); Dan Bailey, Sommelier, Mastro's Beverly Hills; Allyson Gorsuch, Deputy Editor, The Somm Journal; Simon Shamoun, owner, Tarzana Wines and Spirits; Albert Letizia, Sommelier, The Bazaar by José Andrés; Chuck Wagner, owner of Caymus Vineyards; Anthony Dias Blue, Editor-in-Chief, The Somm Journal; Smiley Quick, Wine Specialist, Vendome Wine and Spirits. A VERTICAL OF CAYMUS SPECIAL SELECTION PINPOINTS THIS ICONIC PRODUCER'S HOUSE STYLE story and photos by Allyson Gorsuch Clearly Californian, Clearly Caymus

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