The SOMM Journal

April / May 2017

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30 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2017 { getting geeky } IN FINE-DINING SERVICE, it's all about anticipation. We excel in anticipating our guests needs, and we enjoy doing it. One aspect of beverage service that has been largely ignored—the infusion of tea. Its neglect seems curious to me, so I wanted to investigate how exactly to elevate tea service, and elevate my overall understanding of tea, the world's most consumed beverage other than water. I visited the American Tea Room in Beverly Hills to speak with David Barenholtz, a leading tea specialist in the area, and the country. I explained upon meeting him that I thought tea service in fine restaurants was lacking, and he laughed: "We've been thinking your thought for 14 years." Yes, it does take attention to detail and concerted time to create a tea experience, but we are willing to dedicate that attention and time to every other aspect of service. Why not tea? Perhaps the United States just hasn't been ready to elevate tea until now; tea has been largely looked upon as nondescript tea bags to steep in hot water for a couple of minutes, but it is so much more than that. As Barenholtz and I talked, we began to naturally compare our beverages of expertise—wine and tea—and to realize that the two actually have a great deal in common. They both rely fully on their microclimate for their flavor profile; they both span the spectrum from light and delicate to rich and bold; they both depend upon the harvest for varying characteristics (tea can be plucked five times per year, with the spring providing the most complexity); the two even share a penchant for aging, evidenced in China's Pu'er tea, which undergoes microbial fermentation. Tea falls under the Camellia sinensis family; cultivation began thousands of years ago in China and has found homes in India, Japan, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), and Taiwan (Formosa), as well as expansions into Africa and more. Depending upon plucking, withering, rolling, oxidizing and drying, tea may be broken into four broad categories: green, black, white and oolong. Further categories depend upon regions, oxidation practices and blending essences. So what do we need to do in order to elevate tea service in restaurants? First, we need to take the time to brew various types of tea in different water temperatures for assorted steeping times. This can be simply accomplished by having two temperature-regulated dispensers (173 degrees Fahrenheit for green teas, 195 degrees for other teas) and timers to regulate steeping times. The timer, if implemented tableside, can be explained as part of the elevated presentation. A true commitment to tea service may employ the use of Japanese Hario drip systems or the Bkon Craft Brewer (which is a costly upfront invest - ment but can be well worth it in order to simplify and exact service standards). Tea will stay fresh for six months to a year if stored in a dark, dry, cool area. With a successful tea program, you will sell enough tea to render storage a non-issue. The price of tea varies just as the price of wine depending upon region, scarcity, season of harvest, processing and aging—your markup on tea sales should be in line with your other pricing paradigms. Tea should no longer be a compulsory side-note; instead, we should apply the same anticipatory approach toward its service that we apply for wine. "An actual tea program would simply show thought; it would be distinct, and it would have a point of view," shares Barenholtz. A SKETCH OF A SUPERIOR TEA PROGRAM Barenholtz suggests a tea program with at least 12–15 teas but advises that 20-24 teas would be a better start. BLACK: Earl Grey, Chai, English Breakfast GREEN: Chinese, Japanese, maybe a blended tea WHITE: one expensive and one moderately priced OOLONG: two or three different oxidations SPECIAL(TEAS): should be repre- sented but can fall into any of the above four major categories • Pu'er: at least one; it's incredible to feature one with substantial age. Pu'er teas may only come from the Yunnan province of China. • Darjeeling: arguably the best region for tea. Barenholtz recommends something light and delicate. HERBAL (not technically a tea but a similarly steeped beverage): one citrusy, a couple of floral options, one with spicy notes, maybe something smoked, a rooibos, perhaps a ginger. Once you have a basic outline, it's time to center on your point of view. Do you wish to highlight several countries? Do you prefer to cover the price spectrum? Do you focus on a range of styles? Do you employ a statement in terms of delicacy? Exploring these options can result in a greatly enhanced guest experience. "As long as it's thoughtful," smiles Barenholtz, "then I'm happy." Make Time for Tea TEA PRESENTATION IS BEGGING TO BE ELEVATED AT FINE RESTAURANTS by Allyson Gorsuch PHOTO COURTESY OF AMERICAN TEA ROOM

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