The SOMM Journal

April / May 2017

Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/807387

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 55 of 124

{ fine spirits } PHOTO COURTESY OF 123 SPIRITS Oaxacan Wonder NEWLY RELEASED CRÁNEO ORGANIC MEZCAL ARTESANAL IS STEEPED IN MEXICAN TRADITION by Robert Plotkin WHEN A LARGE CORPORATE SUPPLIER develops a spirit, it is invariably the product of spreadsheets and flow charts. On the other hand, a spirit representing the hopes and aspirations of a single vil- lage is invariably the product of passion, artisanship and unwavering quality standards. Cráneo Organic Mezcal Artesanal is just such a spirit. A celebra- tion of life steeped in deep Mexican tradition, Cráneo is an 100 percent agave artisanal single-village mezcal conceived by all-star agave aficionado David Ravandi, creator of 123 Organic Tequila, and handcrafted by local Oaxacan maestro mezcaleros. When you hear about this spirit being handmade, this is exactly what you should envision—Cráneo is made using traditional methods and techniques and employing vintage equipment passed down through generations. Everything about Cráneo speaks to its authentic - ity. Its mouthfeel, aromatics and range of flavors are brilliant and etched with a palatable sense of place. Made in Santiago Matatlán, Oaxaca, at the company's palenque, or distillery (NOM-0425X), every ounce of Cráneo is crafted under the watchful eye of the maestro mezcalero. The process begins with organic Espadín agave grown above 5,600 feet in elevation. The agaves are USDA- and EU-certified Organic, meaning they were grown without the use of pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. The end result is a cleaner, purer spirit. The harvested agaves are brought to the palenque where they are cooked for days in a rock-lined, wood-fired dirt oven that is covered entirely with rocks and agave leaves. In time- honored tradition, the cooked agaves are crushed using a donkey-pulled stone tahona wheel. The extracted, sugar-rich juice is transferred to open oak vats where it slowly ferments using naturally- occurring airborne yeast. The final step is to double-distill the fermented musto through the distillery's small copper pot stills. It is bottled at 42% alcohol (84 proof). Joven mezcals are bottled fresh from the still, free from the obscuring effects of barrel aging. They therefore serve as the truest gauge of a distiller's degree of craftsmanship and the creative style of the distillery. This is particularly true of Cráneo Organic Mezcal Artesanal and is exactly why legions of spirits enthusiasts are turning to mezcal as their drink of choice. Cráneo is sensational featured in a cocktail or mixed drink, but it's when served neat that the nose and palate can best assess all of this new mezcal's characteristics. It has pristine clarity, a lightweight, satiny textured body and a citrusy, vegetal and slightly smoky set of aromas. Its aromatic signature is alluring and does a marvelous job preparing the palate for the pleasures to follow. The entry is soft and gentle as the mezcal quickly expands, filling the mouth with a bevy of spicy, citrusy and herbal flavors. Its lingering finish is spicy warm. This is a joven mezcal that deserves to be savored slowly and at room temperature. Make sure to afford its nose plenty of time in the glass to fully open and come to the forefront. With Cráneo, patience will be well rewarded. For more information, go to 123spirits.com. A palatable sense of place: Cráneo Organic Mezcal Artesanal is a new 100 percent agave single- village mezcal. David Ravandi, founder of 123 Spirits and cre- ator of Cráneo Organic Mezcal Artesanal, stands among Espadín agave plants in Oaxaca.

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of The SOMM Journal - April / May 2017