The SOMM Journal

April / May 2017

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106 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2017 closing time THE SIDE BAR FOR THIS INSTALLMENT, "CLOSING TIME" should perhaps be renamed "Opening Time," because Calgary, Canada–based Moxie's Grill & Bar recently opened its first U.S. location, at The Crescent in Dallas's Uptown neighborhood. The second U.S. location, in Houston, is coming online soon, and a Plano, Texas, iteration is also under construction. Further expansion plans are hush-hush for now. Talk about moxie. Taking on the American restaurant market was a given for this 60-plus- location premium casual concept, and Texas was bound to be the first stop—the owner is also owner of the Dallas Stars hockey team. National (now International) Beverage Director and Sommelier Kim Spence took the border-crossing in stride, spending several trips to Dallas working up the unique beverage program and training the team. Each Moxie's location has a unique wine, beer, cocktails and non-alcoholic beverage menu, and Spence insists on making each a locally-sourced and -focused as possible. "Every list is different," he says. "In Canada, our beer menus are different from coast to coast. To me, it's very important to work with local producers and suppliers wherever pos - sible." Spence notes that his north-of-the-border wine lists include from 30 to 60 percent Canadian selections from Ontario and British Columbia. The Dallas beer list, similarly, offers brews from the Big D's own Deep Ellum Brewing Company as well as other Texas breweries. Growing up both in Southern Ontario and outside London, England, Spence has been involved in the restaurant business since he was a kid, beginning with washing glasses in an English pub at around nine years old. A number of culinary and restaurant management positions followed. "A part of the business that I was remiss to walk away from," says Spence, "was the connection to ingredients and to creating something. Fortunately, I was able to transition into doing just that with cocktails." Although Spence says that "Dallas is an amazing city with an amazing restaurant scene," did dealing with the U.S. three-tier system require a steep learning curve after working in Canada? "Actually, it was a dream come true," replies the Beverage Director, laughing. "The state of Texas is an open market, easier to deal with and cheaper [than Canada]. Of course, there are some rule and regulations in place, which there should be. But in Canada, we have restaurants in eight provinces, and I have to deal with eight provincial liquor boards—you think you have it hard here?!" Given the eclectic, "something for everybody" menu that ranges from poke and sushi to curry and vindaloo (and don't forget the steaks and burgers), the Moxie's beverage selec - tions need to be just as varied and creative. Cocktails are based on classics (Grapefruit Mojito, anyone?). Wines—from Etna Rosso to Mount Veeder Cab—are fairly priced, with plenty of six- and nine-ounce pours available. Also, Spence notes, Dallas guests are "health- conscious and aware of what they're putting in their bodies," which translates to healthy non-alcoholic beverages on his menu as well. Despite the frequent flier miles and the hours of paperwork, Spence never forgets that the bottom line is on-the-floor service: "I'm happiest when I'm in one of our restaurants. Training and mentorship are rewarding." KIM SPENCE, BEVERAGE DIRECTOR AND SOMMELIER FOR MOXIE'S GRILL & BAR by David Gadd PHOTO COURTESY OF MOXIE'S GRILL & BAR Border Crossing Kim Spence Says . . . "I trained through the International Sommelier Guild. When I came out of the program, I thought, 'Now I know everything!' What [education] really gives you is a great foundation for going out meeting winemakers and mak- ing customers happy. There's always more to learn." "I don't find myself drinking the same thing more than a couple of times. I'm always moving on—there's so much new! I sometimes laugh at what I was drinking five years ago." "The job of anyone in our busi- ness is to create more leaders, not more followers."

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