The SOMM Journal

April / May 2017

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44 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2017 { wine from the alps } Nobody Does It Better KETTMEIR MÜLLER- THURGAU SHOWS ALTO ADIGE'S AFFINITY FOR THIS CHARMING VARIETAL by Roger Morris / photos by Margaret Soss EVERY GRAPE NEEDS TO FIND ITS RIGHT PLACE. After being created in Germany in 1882 by Dr. Herman Müller as an early- ripening cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royale, Müller-Thurgau was widely grown in that country before its popularity waned in the late 1900s. It also found followings in New Zealand, England, the U.S. and Eastern European countries, but in recent years it has real - ized its true promise in the northern Italian region of Alto Adige. For producing varietal Müller-Thurgau, nobody does it better than the winemak - ers in the mountains around the town of Bolzano , especially Kettmeir. Celebrating its 100th anniversary as a wine producer in 2019, Kettmeir has been a pioneer in introducing the charms of this mildly aromatic, well-balanced table wine to the American consumers. "The Kettmeir Müller-Thurgau certainly shows its Riesling heritage with its exotic fruit aromas, yet it remains a dry wine," says Kristina Sazama, Marketing Manager for Santa Margherita USA, which imports the wine. "It also offers all of the fresh scents of the mountains just like Kettmeir's Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco." Although Alto Adige is nestled into the Dolomite Alps, it is only about 100 miles north of Verona, and hot summer winds sweep up from the plains through the Adige River Valley to fully ripen the Müller-Thurgau grapes. Altogether, there are more than 550 acres of Müller-Thurgau planted in the region, many of them old-vine vineyards on well-drained hillsides. Kettmeir's grapes come from the Soprabolzano zone, where they are planted on pergola systems at heights between 1,312 and 2,300 feet on limestone and porphyric soils. When the grapes are hand harvested in late September to early October, they begin vinification with a brief maceration on their skins at low tempera - tures to maximize the extraction of their peach aromas. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at temperatures of 57–59°F. Alcohol is a moderate 12.5%. "Kettmeir's Müller-Thurgau, although fragrant, has enough acidity and bright - ness to go well with the summer foods on our menu," says Rusti Gilbert, Wine Director at Tasting Room Del Mar in Southern California. "We provide it in 3 ounce and 5 ounce pours, and customers also can buy a bottle to take with them. " Tasting Room Del Mar has a varied menu of foods that have been selected to match its wines, Gilbert says, "so we do a lot of wine and food pairings." Gilbert also likes selling Kettmeir Müller-Thurgau because customers enjoy hear - ing its interesting history. "It's also an opportunity to show that a high-quality wine can be made from this grape that hasn't always had the best reputation," she says. Sazama says the wine has been receiving great reception across the country, particularly as a versatile and affordable fresh by-the-glass white wine. Rusti Gilbert is Wine Director at Tasting Room Del Mar in Southern California. "The Kettmeir Müller-Thurgau certainly shows its Riesling heritage," says Kristina Sazama, Marketing Manager for importer Santa Margherita USA.

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