The SOMM Journal

April / May 2017

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104 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2017 { climate matters } SOMMELIERS MAY ONE DAY BE POURING Châteauneuf-du-Pape blends with currently non-authorized grapes—such as Carignan from the Languedoc, or even Spanish and Greek varieties, more accustomed to hot - ter and dryer climates—a representative of an association of producers from the celebrated French wine appellation has stated. The reason? Global climate change. Châteauneuf-du-Pape has unique AOC regulations that currently allow 18 authorized grape varieties.* Yet even this impressive array may not suffice: "We have seen quite important climatic changes that compel us to think out of the box," says Michel Blanc of the Fédération des Syndicats des Producteurs de Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Federation representatives last year agreed to possibly experiment with grape varieties outside the authorized 18, including Carignan, a grape long associated with the Languedoc region and which has proven its quality in hotter and dryer climates when made from older vines. "That could work for us too," Blanc says. The Grenache grape, the mainstay of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, has been yielding much more sugar content in recent years, with noticeably higher alcohol levels. "We have observed an increase in average alcohol degrees after 2000 from about 13.5 to an average of 14.5 today," vintner Florent Lançon of Domaines Pierre Lançon (Domaine de la Solitude) tells The Somm Journal. Sommeliers can recall mid-1990s vintages and earlier with more modest degrees, but these days 15.5 is not uncommon for the appellation. Before non-official grapes are even considered, producers have been substituting lesser-known varieties of the already authorized 18 or are looking to other versions of Grenache that ripen more slowly. Grenache grows in Priorat in Spain, for example, where rainfall averages about 300 millimeters (11.8 inches) per year, as compared to double that in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, explains Lançon, "so we can use such types of Grenache too." Thomas Perrin of Château de Beaucastel, known for significant percent - ages of Syrah in its blends, explains how Syrah is being gradually replaced with Counoise, one of the authorized appellation grape varieties. "Counoise has a big advantage as a later-ripening grape and suffers less from summer heat while lending nearly the same peppery aspects of Syrah," he explains. Furthermore, appellation rules permit up to 20 percent of white grapes in red wines, which would add acidity, Blanc added. Bourboulenc, for example, can withstand much sunshine, ripens late and produces wines low in alcohol. Harvest time later this year near the legendary Palais des Papes in Avignon will bring the same Grenache-dominated reds, as always. Unlike global climate change deniers, however, Châteauneuf-du-Pape vintners are taking precautionary steps to anticipate the effects of this largely proven phenomenon. Beyond Grenache HOW CLIMATE CHANGE COULD CHANGE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE story and photos by Panos Kakaviatos Red and white grapes being harvested in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. *Châteauneuf-du-Pape—France's first appellation contrôlée—is traditionally cited as allowing 13 grape varieties to be used in its wines, as listed in the original AOC regulations of 1936. In the 2009 version of the AOC rules, however, blanc (white), rosé (pink) and noir (black) versions of some grapes were explicitly listed as separate varieties, bringing the total to 18. Harvest at Château Fortia. Michel Blanc of the Fédération des Syndicats des Producteurs de Châteauneuf-du-Pape (left) with author Panos Kakaviatos.

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