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14 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide Excerpts taken from the Italian Wine Scholar Manual MARSALA In the early 1770s John Woodhouse, a merchant from Liverpool, was sailing off the west coast of Sicilia to Mazara del Vallo to buy sodium carbonate. A storm forced him to dock instead at the port of Marsala. While there, Woodhouse had the chance to taste a local specialty wine that reminded him of Madeira. This intense and complex wine was called vino perpetuo (or perpetuum). In order to produce this distinctive wine, local farmers adopted a process similar to the solera system used for Sherry in Spain. Woodhouse believed this wine could be refined, fortified and produced at lower cost than Madeira or other fortified wines that the Britsh imported at that time. He settled in Marsala and began buying grapes and vineyards. He estab - lished a winery and a warehouse and also invested in the town of Marsala. In 1805 Thomas Jefferson described Marsala as "an excellent wine, and well worthy of being laid in stocks to acquire age." The reputation of Marsala continued to grow throughout the 19 th century, and it became one of the world greatest fortified wines. Marsala is essentially a white fortified wine, therefore the classic styles of Marsala are produced from white grapes. NOT YOUR NONNA'S MARSALA: A SWEET FINISH AND A BITTER NOTE MARSALA STYLES Marsala Vergine is made from white grapes and is fortified by adding only grape spirit (acquavite) and/ or ethyl alcohol. No other additions can be made. The fortified wine is then matured in wood barrels of either oak or cherry. In order to promote the oxida - tion the barrels are never completely filled. Marsala Vergine must be matured in wood barrels for a mini- mum of five years. The final wine must have less than 4% residual sugar and a final alcohol content of at least 18% abv. Marsala Vergine matured in wood barrels for at least ten years can be called riserva (or stravecchio). Both versions of Vergine can carry the vintage year on the label. Marsala Superiore and Marsala Fine are also fortified with alcohol, but the alcohol is mixed with one of three types of prepared grape must. This mix - ture of alcohol and must is called the concia. MARSALA GRAPES Grillo is considered the most important grape. It enhances both texture and aromas, while providing high sugar levels, particularly when trained by alberello. In general the best Marsalas are based on Grillo. Catarratto was favored after the phylloxera epi - demic because of its higher yields. It tends to produce less alcohol than Grillo, requiring a greater amount of alcohol during fortification. Catarratto also oxidizes easily, adding oxidative aromas and darker color both of which are desired for certain styles. Inzolia was widely used for the production of Marsala before plantings were ravaged by oidium in the mid-19th century. Inzolia contributes perfume. Damaschino plays a very minor role, and it is the least used among the white grapes. The red varieties Nero d'Avola, Perricone and Nerello Mascalese are used to produce the less com - mon rubino (ruby) style.