Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/807387
{ SOMMjournal.com } 93 G obs of silvery gray clouds mirrored the muted metallic tones outside the private dining room of Tom Colicchio's Craft in Los Angeles. This particular afternoon, in the midst of Southern California's recent slew of historic winter storms, only managed to deliver a weak drizzle. Had the weather actually somehow trapped the elite gathering of somms at Craft, the Angeleno world of fine-dining might have stopped spinning. Spago, The Line Hotel, Montage and Otium, just to name a few, would have been deprived of their fearless leaders. Fortunately, though, there was a break in the clouds for The Somm Journal as nine of L.A.'s most awesome sommeliers blind-tasted their way through 11 different white wines. With an exception or two, in the initial nosing of the entirety of the line-up there was one commonality: higher aromatics. This left our somms to look elsewhere for clues, naturally turn - ing to structure for their conclusions (as somms are taught to do anyway). After about 40 minutes of tast- ing, they noshed on Craft's farm-to-table eats as each winemaker/winery representative unveiled their own wines—so many of them pleasant surprises. A pensive Phillip Dunn, Wine Director, Spago Beverly Hills. Attila Balla, President and CEO (right), and Eniko˝ Magyar, Project Director, of Vinum Tokaj International. MÁD 2015 FURMINT, Tokaj, Hungary (SRP $20) First in the line-up—and appro- priately so as 2017 is after all the official year of Furmint here at The Somm Journal—was a 2015 Furmint from the village of Mád, which is also the name of the winery. Out to prove dry Furmint is just as complex as its beloved sweeter, noble-rotted version of Furmint—Tokaji Aszú—Attila Balla, President and CEO of Vinum Tokaj International, in his Central European accent, deferred to our own Deputy Editor Allyson Gorsuch for the rundown. Mád, the commercial village centrally located in the world's oldest classified wine region, Tokaj, is also Tokaj's largest village appel - lation. István Szepsy Jr. is Mád's 18th-gener ation winemaker and makes this village-level dry Furmint by blending grapes from 26 differ - ent vineyards. Fermentation takes place in steel tanks and is bottled immediatel y. This results in a sub - stantial perception of minerality which reflects the volcanic soil of the area (rhyolite base rocks with zeolite clay mineral). Tasting Notes Sea shells, citrus, fresh lemon. Bone dry and nice finish. —Albert Letizia A light and refreshing wine. Very easy drinking with a nice balanced acid. Summer day patio crusher. —Andrew Pettingell