The Tasting Panel magazine

April 2010

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SOUTH AMERICA Familia Schroeder When the Schroeders were excavat- ing for their sleek, modern winery, they came upon an important archeological fi nd: bones of a huge Titanosaur. As a result the winery’s premium product line is called Saurus. Familia Schroeder makes 100,000 cases of wine, all sourced from 270 acres of estate vineyards. Vinifi cation is state-of-the- art, and the winery operates almost exclusively using gravity-fl ow. Winemaker Leonardo Puppato makes seven distinct lines of wine including: Alpataco, Alpataco Reserve, Saurus, Saurus Patagonia Select, Saurus Barrel Fermented, and Familia Schroeder (the ultra-premium wines). There is also a line of very pleasant sparkling wines. 2008 Alpataco Sauvignon Blanc ($15) Juicy and racy with clean, silky mouth feel and lovely fruit; balanced and smooth, pure and long. 89 2006 Alpataco Malbec ($15) Smooth and lush with sweet oak, ripe plum and berry notes; juicy, dense and long; stylish and balanced. 90 2006 Alpataco Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) Bright, fresh and lively with earth, plum and soft spice; long and balanced, fresh and classic. 88 2007 Saurus Malbec ($25) Lush and dense with ripe plum and juicy fruit; long and harmonious, mellow and balanced. 88 Familia Schroeder 2007 Malbec ($50) Dark, ripe and spicy with toast, blackberry and dense fl avors; complex and balanced, supple and lovely. 91 Eco Valley Bodega NQN NQN is the airport code for Neuquén. This handsome, modern winery is built into a hillside and is surrounded by its vineyards. Lucas Nemesio, the owner, is a photogenic 40- year-old whose winery was the second in the area after Fin del Mundo. The wines are exqui- sitely clean and balanced with fruit dominating but everything in balance. NQN makes four lines of wine: 66 / the tasting panel / april 2010 Owner Lucas Nemesio. Bodega Familia Schroeder makes a striking sight at night. value line Picada 15, Malma, Malma Reserve and premium tier Colección. There is also an attractive sparkling wine. The NQN winery welcomes tour- ists and there is an excellent restaurant featuring the cooking of celebrated Argentine chef Matías Nuñez. Malma 2009 Pinot Noir ($15) Pale ruby; racy and bright with juicy, tangy cherry fruit; lively, fresh and charming. 89 Malma Reserva 2007 Malbec ($18) Ripe and dense with dark color and smooth, rich fl avors of plum, cassis, blackberry and pepper; soft tannin and a long fi nish. 90 Malma Reserva 2007 Merlot ($18) Dark and rich with velvety texture and racy acidity; fresh, fruit-forward with depth and refi nement; stunning. 91 Colección 2007 Malbec ($20) Silky and concentrated with supple, ripe texture and complex plum, spice and pepper. 90 Colección 2006 ($20) A smooth, seamless and silky Malbec-Cabernet blend with violets, sweet oak and lush plum. 93 Vias Imports Universo Austral This winery is part of VC Family Estates, a Chilean holding company owned by the Ibañez family. The com- pany owns four Chilean wineries in ad- dition to Universo Austral. This winery sources grapes from both the Neuquén area and Río Negro. Pascal Marchand, the Canadian winemaking manager, is a Pinot Noir specialist with Burgundian experience. Universo Austral makes charming, good-value Pinot Noir under the Calafate label and a more complex version in the high-end Collection line. Pablo Herrera, who is in charge of all winemaking processes, is from Chile but has found his milieu with Malbec. Universo Austral produces three levels of wine: Cruz Diablo, Finca Rojo and Calafate. The wines are well-made and a good value. 2009 Calafate Sauvignon Blanc Reserva ($8) Juicy, fresh with lively peach fruit and racy citrus; miner- als, tropical and lush with excellent acidity. 89 2008 Kooch Pinot Noir Gran Reserva ($28) Dense and meaty with ripe black cherry and nice fresh acidity; soft and deep. 88 Bodega NQN has a handsome, modern winery facility. 2008 Kooch Malbec, Collection ($28) Deep, dark and plummy with ripe tannins and intense black cherry, chocolate, plum and black raspberry fruit; concentrated, earthy and very long. 91 W. J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K PHOTO COURTESY OF BODEGA NQN PHOTO: ANTHONY DIAS BLUE PHOTO COURTESY OF FAMILIA SCHROEDER

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