The Tasting Panel magazine

April 2010

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Page 83 of 116

Tasting Notes During a recent five-day trip to the region, I tasted more than 100 wines. Here are 15 of the most notable, current vintages where possible. U.S. prices are approximate. Aalto PS 2006 ($110) A thrilling wine, deep and dark but with supportable alcohol and a brightness that belies its weight. EUROPEAN CELLARS Alión 2006 ($85) A floral nose complements explosive fruit and extremely fine tannins; a lithe, elegant wine. EUROPVIN Bodegas Hermanos Sastre 2005 Regina Vides ($185) Dense, dark fruit framed by mouth-puckering tannins; not for the faint-hearted. DE MAISON SELECTIONS Bodegas Los Astrales 2006 ($50) Oak weighs in here, but supports a core of dark fruit that opens up with time in the glass; needs a couple of years. GRAPES OF SPAIN up and show some fruit, but this bottling’s track record indicates that it will. EMPRANILLO, INC. Lynus 2006 Pagos del Infante ($30) Internationally styled, but the meatiness of the Tempranillo comes through; another bargain. SECOND STORY SELECTIONS Pérez Pascuas 2003 Gran Reserva Ripe but fresh, in the traditional style. Remarkably restrained for such a hot vintage. NOT CURRENTLY IMPORTED Resalte de Peñafiel 2005 Crianza Almost Rhône-like with its autumnal nose. Palate shows an appealing crispness. NOT CURRENTLY IMPORTED Dominio de Atauta 2001 Llanes de Almendro ($135) The best of the Soria wines in its inaugural vintage: persistent fruit made almost weightless in the mouth by great acidity, augmented by a long finish; a template for Soria wines to come. RARE WINE CO. Dominio de Pingus 2008 Pingus ($600) A triumph of balance in a difficult vintage; reserved and elegant, it’s delicious now and built to last—check back in a decade. RARE WINE CO. Ébano 2006 ($30) So dark as to be almost rimless, it’s teeth- staining like a barrel sample but has fineness and balance; tastes like a $60 wine. KYSELA PÈRE ET FILS Emilio Moro 2007 Malleolus de Valdarramiro ($140) Austere and elegant now, it needs five years to open Tierras el Guijarral 2005 Rudeles Selección All blueber- ries and coffee, an intense wine with a splash of acidity to keep it drinkable. Prospective importers take note! NOT CURRENTLY IMPORTED Viña Solorca 2004 Gran Solorca Reserva ($25) Classic Ribera aromatics and open-knit tannins support ripe fruit. Will hang around for a decade and more. MAJA IMPORTS Vega Sicilia 2000 Único (~$325) Not yet in the market, it’s a tightly wound, introspective wine, a mid-weight Único with the usual glorious future. RARE WINE CO. Vizcarra 2006 Inés ($150) Plenty of minerality accents delicious red and black fruit; expensive for what you get, but quintes- sentially Spanish, and connoisseurs of the region will love it. OLÉ IMPORTS april 2010 / the tasting panel / 83

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