The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2014

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june 2014  /  the tasting panel  /  63 Australian Powerhouse: Torbreck Vintners TORBRECK VINTNERS WAS FOUNDED BY DAVID POWELL in 1994 when he discovered a few sections of dry-grown old vines in Australia's Barossa Valley. He managed to raise enough money to share- farm a few vineyards, a practice that eventually allowed him to obtain the best grapes in Barossa. Torbreck's long-term vision of 100% estate produced and bottled wine reached completion in 2008 when a new winery was built. Torbreck (named for a forest in Scotland where Powell worked as a lumberjack) is based around the classic red Rhône varietalsShiraz, Grenache and Mataro (Mourvèdre) mostly from old vines scattered throughout Barossa's microclimates. Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne are also planted in the estate Descendant vineyard. The wines have names derived from Highland Scottish culture and history. New winemaker Craig Isbel tasted through some new releases with me recently. As my notes show, these are some of Australia's most powerful, articulate and fascinating wines. 88 Torbreck 2012 Cuvée Juveniles, Barossa Valley, Australia ($22) Smooth and lush with deep, concentrated flavors of blackberry and spice; dense, earthy and balanced; unoaked. 62% Grenache, 23% Shiraz & 15% Mataro 90 Torbreck 2010 The Steading, Barossa Valley, Australia ($38) Bright and juicy with depth and lovely balance; bright and showing light oak and spice; fresh, lushly textured, concentrated and long. 64% Grenache, 18% Shiraz, 18% Mataro. 93 Torbreck 2011 The Struie, Barossa, Australia ($50) Dark and rich with spice, blackberry and sweet plum; lovely depth and rich texture; structured and long. 100% Shiraz from Eden Valley (5%) and Barossa Valley (95%). 94 Torbreck 2009 The Pict, Barossa Valley ($75) A dense, rich Mataro (Mourvèdre) with intense black fruit and spice; juicy and lively with deep flavors and bright acidity; earthy and huge with hints of chocolate and mocha. 93 Torbreck 2009 The Descendant, Barossa Valley, Australia ($125) Velvety-smooth texture, lush and minerally with elegant blackberry and spice; intense yet balanced and precise; stunning and long. 92% Shiraz, 8% Viognier. 91 Torbreck 2009 The Factor, Barossa Valley, Australia ($125) An homage to old-vine Shiraz; rich, powerful and balanced with ripe berry, dark chocolate and spice; dense, long and massive. 96 Torbreck 2010 RunRig, Barossa Valley, Australia ($225) Generous and intense with rich blackberry and spice; seamless and layered; rich, elegant and powerful; very long and precise finish. 2.5% Viognier. Imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc. Birmingham, AL. TP0614_034-71.indd 63 5/23/14 9:24 PM

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