Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/6221
DePaRTMenT header mote dirt roads in a careening Land Rover, canoeing on the river past the low-hanging branches of pa- perbark trees, stopping at aboriginal caves or taking a "cape to cape" walk in the desolate green hills, where limestone and granite cliffs overlook the raging blue sea. Sean Blocksidge, owner of The Margaret River Dis- covery Company and former cellar door manager of Voyager Estate, could be called the Indiana Jones of the region: "It's all about going places that you can't do by yourself or get to on your own." A few historic places that can be reached are the five founding winer- ies of the region: Cullen, Leeuwin [both Old Bridge Cellars], Moss Wood [Artisan Wines Inc.], Cape Mentelle [Moët Hennessy USA] and Vasse Felix [Negociants USA]. Following in Dr. Gladstone's foot- steps, pioneering Diane and Dr. Kevin Cullen have emerged with a star winery since planting their first few trial acres in 1966. Starting out with 18 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling, they moved on to Chardon- nay and Sauvignon Blanc. They were the first locals to plant Merlot in the region, and the first commercial vine- yard in the 1970s to turn fully organic. Leeuwin has a multi-million-dollar facility to showcase its Art Series Ries- ling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz and Cabernet, with a restau- rant, art gallery and concert venue that draw large crowds annually to the area. Unassuming Cape Mentelle offers behind- the-scenes tours and tastings. If you're lucky enough to have a sip of their flagship Cabernet, don't skip the 2007 Sangiovese, as it's only available at the winery. Moss Wood put its stamp on the Margaret River in the 1970s with a benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon in addition to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Semillon. Moss Wood's Rib- bon Vale Vineyard also produces Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet-Merlot and Merlot. There is also a Cab- ernet Sauvignon produced from grapes sourced from Yallingup and Cowaramup in the north. Tanzanian-born Clive Otto—an avid surfer and Winestate maga- zine's "Australian Winemaker of the Year"—had made world-class wines for 16 years at Vasse Felix when, in 2006, he decided to make the move to the more boutique-style Fra- ser Gallop [not yet imported to the States]. It was a move that paid off. In 2009, the Fraser Gallop 2007 Caber- net Sauvignon won the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards for the best Bordeaux red blend. "It's a dream winery," claims Otto, with the enthusiasm of a vintner who has just experienced his first successful crush. For Otto, Cabernets and Cab blends are actually his favorites to make, followed by Chardonnay. And, it must pass his bottle test: "If I can drink it all by myself in one sitting, it's a go!" he says with a laugh. Benchmark Cabernet. An impromptu tasting in the cellar at Moss Wood. Must stop. Local bottles are the focus at chic winebar and bistro Must. "A dream winery." A view of the vineyards at Fraser Gallop Estate. january–february 2010 / the tasting panel / 71