The Tasting Panel magazine

Jan 2010

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"I am in control of the cocktail menu," Bar Chef Camber Lay firmly states, as she busies herself prep- ping behind the upstairs bar at Epic Roasthouse. She barely has time to make eye contact with me as I follow her up and down the oak counter like a volleyball player running up and down the length of the net. When she finally settles at one spot, she gathers her housemade li- queur of Meyer lemons, fresh sprigs of thyme and a platter of grilled lemons. "These came from Chef [Jan] Birnbaum," she points to the half- dozen lemons with blackened tops. "I love using herbs and making my own concoctions; I just made a blood orange and tarragon liqueur," she informs me. The 33-year-old tastes me on her completed masterpiece, "Days of In- famy," a savory cocktail that offers up the charred but fresh lemons and the delicate but integral notes of Plym- outh gin and a hint of black tea from Qi, a liqueur from Hangar One. "I am influenced by all things culinary," she says. "My advice to bartenders: Stay true to your fruits and veggies." making Tracks at rn74 N amed after the highway that runs through Burgundy's Côte d'Or, RN74—a Michael Mina restaurant—evokes the concourse of a French gare, with high ceilings, railroad lanterns hanging from the rafters and a wine list on railway terminal boards. Wide open spaces enhance this French-style bistro, situated on the ground level of the sleek Millennium Tower in San Fran's SoMa district. While the wine list echoes its Burgundian calling, the bar is an eclectic, anything-goes scene, manned by the talented Jose Zepeda. As Bar Manager, Zepeda opened Michael Mina's first restaurant in San Jose, Arcadia, and also de- buted the bar programs at Mina's Fix at Bellagio and Stack at the Mirage in Las Vegas. He has been the dominant figure at RN74's bar since it opened in April of last year. The 36-year-old has a keen nose and palate and can come up with a delectable cocktail recipe by inspiration alone. "The hardest thing for me is to come up with names for the drinks," says the prolific mixologist. THE TASTING PANEL thought we might help him out with that. After being introduced to Absolut Boston for the first time, a new Absolut flavor that incorporates black tea and elderflower, Zepeda thought: "Lychee! Rosemary!" From there, we came up with the name "Coast to Coast," which has become the vodka's signature drink at RN74. Absolut Boston's components proved spectacu- lar in San Francisco—and hence the "Coast to Coast" was born. Jose Zepeda combines the vodka with white sweet vermouth, muddled lychee and rosemary ("the rosemary lifts the tea characteristics") and a half ounce of lemon juice. San Francisco january–february 2010 / the tasting panel /  79 Camber Lay is Bar Chef at Epic Roasthouse.

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