Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/326040
4 / the tasting panel / june 2014 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR After food and drink, one of the great pleasures of dining out is conversation with friends—and, occasionally, with people at the next table, with whom you may want to share your experience of cocktails, cuisine and wine in a friendly exchange. The problem these days is, restaurants have become so noisy that conversation, even with the person sitting to your immediate left or right, is virtually impossible. Diners are relegating to shouting around or across the table over the incessant din, consequently raising the noise level even further. Don't get me wrong: I'm glad that the stuffy, boring—and generally hushed—"haute cuisine" and "Continental" restaurants of yesteryear are long gone, along with their equally stuffy, boring dishes and overpriced wines. I'm equally glad that the demographic of today's fine-dining public is skewing younger and younger, especially in urban areas like New York and San Francisco, where 20-somethings can afford—and appreciate—great food and wine. I'm not such a fuddy-duddy that I don't enjoy the hum of a lively bistro or the clatter of a busy trattoria. But is it really necessary for the crowd— especially at the bar—to take on the roar of a soccer stadium during a World Cup match? Trying to enjoy a meal over NASCAR-level noise is fatiguing and off-putting. One of the issues, it seems, is that many of the best restaurants these days are located in loft-like industrial spaces that abound with hard, noise- reflecting surfaces, while trendy music that's meant to create "atmosphere" is generally thumping at disco-like levels. Another issue is that today's hippest eating establishments rarely have tablecloths; instead, the trend is for casual hardwood or Formica tables that are easy to clean—hygienic, yes; quiet, no. Likewise, restaurant dining chairs are rarely padded, but instead made from form-molded plastic, aluminum or other hard surfaces— again, more noise. Noise-damping curtains? Fuggedaboudit—not in the budget. I've often thought restaurants should have a large fire-bell that is triggered automatically when the restaurant noise level reaches a pre-determined decibel level—say, the level of a Harrier jet leaving an aircraft carrier. When the bell rings, diners would be reminded to tone it down to a civilized level. "You're dreaming," you may say. Say what?? CONTRIBUTORS Educated in fine arts and film, award-winning photographer Rafael Tongol lived and photographed all over Asia and Europe before settling in the United States. His photographs have been exhibited in numerous galleries internationally and have been published in Los Angeles Times, Newsweek, Women's Wear Daily, Soma, Men's Health, and American Photo, among other publications. Swirl by swirl, sip by sip, Lanee Lee valiantly tries to live up to her @WanderlushDiary Twitter handle. In her world, cultural immersion–from match to moonshine–begins with a toast. Based in Los Angeles, she is co-founder of the female-centric travel blog VoyageVixens.com, a contributing editor at FathomAway. com and Society of American Travel Writers (SATW) member. In addition to Tasting Panel, she covers travel, spirits and wine for American Way, Robb Report, Travel + Leisure digital, AAA Westways, Every Day with Rachael Ray, Cooking Light, C Magazine, Cigar & Spirits and more. After moving to California for college at Pepperdine University, Breanne DeMore began work- ing in the magazine industry, eventually having the opportu- nity to work for The Tasting Panel as an Associate Editor. Now freelancing, she has a passion for telling stories, a love of words and a relentless interest in the wine and spirits industry. Jeremy Ball is a wine and food photographer and founder of Bottle Branding, a creative media company. Before photography, his passion for food and wine was cultivated while working with fantastic winemakers and talented chefs throughout Santa Barbara County. Jeremy lives in Lompoc, CA with his beautiful wife, Michelle. Visit www.bottlebranding.com Say What?? TP0614_001-33.indd 4 5/23/14 8:29 PM