The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2014

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26  /  the tasting panel  /  june 2014 SCOTCH REPORT S cotch has been getting increasingly funky in recent years—there are even rumors that some women may be drinking it (note: before you write in, this is a joke)—but in shaking off its tweedy image no one expected to find global soccer icon David Beckham, once of L.A. Galaxy and shortly to launch a MLS franchise in Miami, endorsing a brand. And, even if that could have been predicted, it's unlikely that anyone would have guessed he'd be working with a grain whisky, though Miami is a great whisky market. Grain whisky is Scotland's little secret. While it lies at the heart of every blend, it is seldom seen on its own. Produced on an industrial scale in a few large plants that maintain a discreet anonymity, it's not the side of Scotch whisky that the industry cares to highlight. Not, I hasten to add, that there's anything wrong with it, but it hardly fits the picture postcard image of a tiny distillery in the heather-clad hills. And, up until now, the prevailing wisdom was that it was too bland—think of it as the flour in a cake, necessary to hold everything together but the interest comes from the fruit and the cherries, the single malts in this analogy. But suddenly there's been a rash of new single grain whiskies promoted in their own right. First came the Girvan Grain from William Grant & Sons but, intriguing as that was, the idea that David Beckham had lent his name to a whisky endorse- ment really raised the bar. Beckham is working with Diageo to launch Haig Club, produced at Diageo's giant Cameronbridge distillery, in a unique pro- cess that combines grain whisky from three cask types. This creates a fresh, clean style that showcases butterscotch and toffee for an ultra-smooth taste. According to the company, this "will be enjoyed not only by current whisky drink- ers, but also by those who have always wanted to try whisky." Personally, I'm far from clear on what's holding these people back at the moment, but I guess Diageo has researched this way beyond my pay grade. The celebrity endorsement has been the source of some controversy among alcohol control groups, concerned about Beckham's appeal to a youthful audience. Clearly, this was anticipated, and Beckham will lead the promotion of a responsible drinking program linked to the brand. Haig Club will be launched in key markets, including the U.S., later this year. I'll bring you a report. Also causing some controversy, notably in social media, is the Ardbeg Auriverdes, this year's special release for Ardbeg Day (May 31). Limited quantities will be available in the U.S. at $99.99, but the excitement surrounds a bottle of the so-called Gold Edition—one of a very few special bottles supplied to journalists and bloggers. One recipient chose not to drink their bottle but sent it to auction. Leaving aside the ethics, what has excited fans of the iconic Islay dram is that the bottle fetched more than $3,500! I'm just jealous—they didn't send me one. Scotland's Little Secret SCOTCH SINGLE GRAIN WHISKIES COME TO LIGHT by Ian Buxton PHOTO COURTESY OF EDRINGTON TP0614_001-33.indd 26 5/23/14 8:30 PM

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