Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/326040
22 / the tasting panel / june 2014 SAN FRAN INSIDER "P ristine, invigorating, ideal"— words that describe both the wines produced by Elena Walch and Italy's unique Alto Adige region. When Walch and one of her two daugh- ters, Karoline, poured their wines with dinner at The Butcher Block at Salumeria last month, she elaborated on what it took to elevate quality in a region where the wines had once been considered com- monplace. "I began by making changes in the vineyard. We replaced the old pergola trellising system with Guyot and double Guyot, planted at a higher density, reduced yields and introduced interna- tional varieties," she said. The estate vineyards of her husband's winemaking family, the largest in the region, responded in kind. Thirty years later the single vineyards of Castel Ringberg and south-facing Kastelaz produce three classifications of wine, of all which convey her intentions. Her mono-varietal whites—Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer, with its tea roses and lemon balm, recognized by Gambero Rosso as one of Italy's top wines—are lauded for their expression. International varieties dominate her proprietary blends—Chardonnay for "Beyond the Clouds" and a Bordeaux-style blend with Lagrein for "Kermesse"—which are co-fermented and intended to develop with age. "2000 was the first year for Beyond the Clouds, and not long ago we tasted through the older vintages," said Karoline; "they were extraordinary and still developing." Treveri, makers of a sparkling blanc de blanc of Syrah and Chardonnay from the Wahluke Slope, poured the first of six wines from Washington State during lunch at Absinthe. Boutique producers from Washington were in town to show- case varieties and wine styles from dif- ferent growing regions around the state. A trio of rich whites were paired with an Asian-inspired carrot bisque: Dunham Cellars 2012 Riesling showed iris, green apple and petrol notes, a 2012 Roussanne from Lauren Ashton was rich and weighty with dry extract and Alexandria Nicole 2013 barrel-aged Viognier conjured Condrieu. Two 2010 Merlots bridged classic dishes of roasted chicken and steak frites: Taramack Cellars' 30th anniversary release was bright with spiced black plums and the Fidelitas 2010 Champoux was savory with celery salt, umami, cedar and dark fruit. For winegrow- ers, tractors are an evergreen topic of both conversation and, often, videos. Said Rioja producer Alvaro Palacios, the owner of a sleek French-made Bobard, as he shared a clip of the tractor at top speed, "We've got the only one in Spain." Palacios, who is best known for his old-vine Garnacha and Tempranillo blends, includ- ing La Vendima ($16), La Montesa ($20) and Priopiedad ($45), from Baja Rioja sites near Alfaro, is pushing the envelope in more ways than one. After years of planning, he's preparing to release a cru-level wine, Valmira, from a tiny three-hectare site at his Palacios Remondo estate in the Yerga Mountains of eastern Rioja. He describes the wine, made from 100-year old vines, as having wild strawberry with resinous herbs and tangerine peel: "Garnacha is the traditional grape of the Baja. Tempranillo was introduced in the '80s because yields were more reliable." Over a lunch of tapas and paella at Coqueta, he debuted renderings of a new winery facility that's now being built in Bierzo. Palacios has lobbied hard and won approval to use village names on his Bierzo wines, laying the ground work for more single- vineyard wines. The Relentless Pursuit by Deborah Parker Wong Alto Adige producer Elena Walch (right) and daughter Karoline rely on a large network of small distributors across the U.S. for their portfolio of 18 wines. Boutique producers and growers from Washington State (left to right): Lauren Ashton's Kit Singh, Klipsun Vineyards' Patricia "Trish" Gelles, Tervari's Christian Grieb and David Gelles. Garnacha advocate and toreador Alvaro Palacios is develop- ing cru sites in Rioja and Bierzo. PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG 5 5 9 . 6 7 3 . 6 3 7 2 / 2 0 1 4 6 R O A D 2 1 / M A D E R A , C A L I F O R N I A 93 The 2010 Paso Robles Mariposa is an 87% Tempranillo blend with 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Each wine received three punch downs per day until primary fermentation was complete– then pressed off into 20% new/ 80% vintage French oak barrels for 20 months. The result was a complex, deliciously pleasant wine with dark, sweet, red cherry, plum spice and a hint of peach meat and tangerine peel. A wonderfully natural wine. Buy our wines online at www.cruwinecompany.com or wherever fine wines are sold. * *Thank you Tasting Panel. TP0614_001-33.indd 22 5/23/14 8:29 PM