Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/6221
Lynae Fearing and Tracy Rathbun Owners, Shinsei By the time Shinsei opened in mid-2006, there was already con- siderable buzz surrounding it. Despite being Tracy Rathbun's and Lynae Fearing's first restaurant (and business venture together), both owners knew the Dallas dining scene from a unique per- spective: Their husbands are Kent Rathbun, Executive Chef and partner of Abacus and Jasper's, and Dean Fearing, Executive Chef and partner at Fearing's at the Ritz-Carlton, two of the city's most respected chefs. While both readily admit such a situation has its advantages, the real story of Shinsei's success isn't derived just from early press coverage. "We have a unique partnership, very symbiotic. Our husbands were solidly behind us—and still are—but they never thought our three-night-per-week plan would work," says Fear- ing, explaining how each owner is essentially in charge of the restaurant for half the week. It turned out, though, that dividing the responsibilities happened very naturally because, from day one, Rathbun and Fearing talked everything out on the phone each morning. They still do. "It's worked out because of our level of communication. It's a connection, and especially with women, that's very important," says Rathbun. "Our partnership is about sharing core values. It would be impossible to have a partner who didn't get that. When I think of my friendship with Lynae, it's like a sisterhood. I can be very honest with her." A two-story sushi bar and pan-Asian restaurant, Shinsei feels funky, not trendy, with a global vibe that's comfortably timeless. And on most nights, the place is packed, which is why Shinsei finished 2009 with very good numbers despite a lousy national economy. Fearing and Rathbun insist that keeping the menu consistent is key, but they emphasize they like to keep things fresh elsewhere, whether revamping the wine list, improving an already great cold- saké program or upgrading the servers' uniforms. "It's all that and the fact that we just wanted to keep things simple," says Rathbun. "No gimmicks or catches. We built a res- taurant that we wanted to go to. We originally pictured a neigh- borhood sushi place, and it's just kind of rolled into something a whole lot bigger." Fearing agrees with a nod, and then adds, "As we move for- ward, I think we'll continue to evolve without changing the core." www.shinseirestaurant.com A lOOk At fOur femAle fOOd-And-wine prOfeSSiOnAlS whO keep the dAllAS dining Scene fired up story and photos by Anthony Head Lynae Fearing (left) and Tracy Rathbun describe their working relationship at Shinsei as a "sisterhood." Dallas Cheer LeaDeRs 54 / the tasting panel / january–february 2010