Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/6221
J eff Hollinger is one of the rare bartenders who has actually made a difference. His work at Absinthe Brasserie & Bar in San Francisco has not only impacted that city, but influ- enced beverage programs everywhere. His first real gig was at a place called Circadia in San Fran, where he made espressos by day and faked his way be- hind the bar at night. Jeff's first legit job was at Gordon's House of Fine Eats. After paying his dues for a couple of years, he landed at Absinthe, where he made his mark. After seven years and a book (The Art of the Bar: Cocktails Inspired by the Classics), he and co-worker Jonny Raglin are about to open Comstock Saloon, a turn-of-the-last-century, pre-Prohibition– style cocktail bar. What skill or skills do you feel makes a great bartender? The best bartenders are efficient, continually de- vote attention to service and their guests' needs, are educated about the spirits and cocktails featured at their bar, trust their instincts as well as their palates and are always willing to learn. What is your desert island cocktail? A bottomless bottle of Tapatio Blanco, and a never -ending case of ice-cold case Tecates. I mean, what else would you want to be drinking if you're stuck on a desert island? What is your biggest pet peeve behind the bar? Messy bartenders. There's really nothing more annoying than having to clean up after a co-worker when you're busy. A close second are bartenders who are more interested in their own cocktails than they are in a guest's needs. Best advice you ever got regarding bartending? Not advice from anyone in particular, but something I try to live by: It's just cock- tails, man. Have a good time, entertain your guests, trust your instincts and remem- ber, people aren't living and d ying (let's hope) by what we do, so stop taking yourself so damned seriously. Favorite film, TV or literary bartender? Coach, from Cheers. Come on, he was hilarious! Worst mistake you ever made behind the bar? A couple of years ago I learned that one should never make a cocktail with bacon simple syrup. The fat that congeals in the syrup is a little disconcert- ing, and it' s impossible to strain out of a cocktail! What's the "next big thing" in the bar world? Comstock Saloon! What can we expect from the new place? The bar program at Comstock Saloon will evoke feeling of San Francisco's Barbary Coast era a nd honor the philosophy and sensibilities of the pre-Prohibition "Golden Age" of cocktails. Much like the great bartenders of San Francisco's past, we will focus on developing and featuring cock- tails that utilize proprietary house-made ingre- d ients, including assorted cordials, vermouths, bitters and tinctures. Who has been your biggest influence behind the bar? My biggest influences behind the bar have prob- ably been Rob Schwartz and Jonny Raglin. When I worked with Rob, he was a wealth of cocktail and spirits information, and we continually challenged each other to try new ideas and develop new and interesting cocktails. He taught me to pay attention to the balance of flavors in a cocktail and to trust my instincts when it came to combining new or chal- lenging flavor profiles. In the five years that Jonny and I have worked together, Absinthe's bar program has evolved and progressed more than I ever dreamed possible. We've worked off of each other's ideas, individu- ally developed ingredients, changed the approach to our cocktail creations by simplifying recipes and at the same time developing more complex flavor profiles through the use of house-made liqueurs, shrubs, etc. And as we've done these things, we've managed to remain true to the core philoso- phy of Absinthe's classic cocktail program. Original cocktail by Jeff Hollinger Night Porter 1 oz. Dolin Blanc vermouth (or other bianco vermouth) ¾ oz. Obsello absinthe ¾ oz. ruby port ½ oz. Benesin mezcal Lemon twist for garnish Combine ingredients in an ice-filled mix- ing glass and stir for 20 to 30 seconds, or until well chilled. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with the lemon twist. Comstock Saloon, 155 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco 98 / the tasting panel / january–february 2010 PRO-file: Jeff Hollinger