Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/15710
LONGBEACHMAGAZINE.COM 25 WRITTEN BY ERIC WIENER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATT FUKUSHIMA With the first step inside, one is instantly drawn to a familiar aroma whisking throughout the air. It's the unmistakable scent of seafood hovering beneath palm leaf shaped fans, and in and around carvings, vases, and Khmer artworks. Earthy, holistic designs subtly fill out the interior with yellow curry walls, burgundy drapes, rich red-brown chairs and tables along with scattered green plants and upholstery. During the last decade, Sophy's has moved and grown within a delicate process, balancing the need to maintain its careful authenticity with significant expansion. The first move was from Oregon to Long Beach's Cambodia town, and then down the street to their current and roomier Pacific Coast Highway location. Throughout, the menu has expanded to include all the current and popular Thai dishes. Yet, the restaurant's allure comes from its commitment to offering California's equivalent of Cambodian home cooking. "The first time ever I went in, it felt like home," manager Chantha Bob said. Handmade beef skewers, marinated lightly with lemongrass, are served over a pickled papaya and carrot salad. Each bite combines heavy doses of tart sweetness, and it immediately becomes apparent why these skewers disappear by the thousands, especially during the Cambodian New Year. Their various curries, made from scratch with lemongrass paste and coconut milk, generally take top billing, overshadowing even the black peppered or ginger frog. Sophy's does a select number of Southeast Asian elements exceptionally well, which they then layer across almost every item. The homemade lemongrass paste can be traced throughout the menu. The keynotes are sweet and sour, fresh lime and basil, and tangy, tropical acidity – all wondrous in their combinations. Sophy s F I N E T H A I & C A M B O D I A N C U I S I N E