Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/807384
april 2017 / the tasting panel / 71 Ahmed Labbate: The menus of most steakhouses are very consistent. Shrimp cocktail, wedge salad, steak and potatoes. Not at Vaca! Ah, the classic slab and a Cab. Amar: One thing we didn't think of when we named it was that people would think it's a Mexican restaurant, as Vaca means cow in Spanish. We aren't giving them chips and salsa to start, I promise. We went to Spain and visited every small tapas bar we could find and got some great cuisine and ideas. I see that you followed through with that vision on the wine list. There is amazing diversity, and it's not the usual Cab, Cab and more Cab. Amar: We love introducing our guests to Spanish wines. They are fantastic with our menu, and they are excellent values. I brought something very special for us to taste, and it's a page out of your book: Marqués de Murrieta 2007 Castillo Ygay Rioja Reserva Especial. Cheers! Ahmed: This is actually on our list, and we love it. Look at the color and the spectacular nose. Deep, rich, velvety. Perfect for pairing with Amar's cuisine. We have Priorat, Toro, Ribera del Duero. Great values and exceptional quality. They also come to us with age, as this wine. Of course, our home here in California is well represented. This cries for beef! How long do you age your steaks? Amar: We have them aged for 50 days and then put them on a rotation here. None of the steaks we serve have less than 55 days aging. How many cov- ers a day do you do here? Ahmed: We do 2,000 covers a week. We originally weren't going to put seats in the charcuterie, like a true tapas bar. We had to put chairs because people wanted to sit down and dine there. And our patio has been a big hit. What is your best-selling wine? Ahmed: Spanish wine. We have a number of them by the glass, like the Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Riserva, which is a big seller. Tempranillo is our number one, followed by Garnacha. What is the average age range of the diner here? Ahmed: It goes from 20 to 70. The majority of our customers are 30 to 50. The Arts Center [Segerstrom Center for the Arts] concerts, depending on who is playing, can really make a change in the customer base. Do you sell much white wine here? Ahmed: We do now, but it was very slow when we first opened. Our guests didn't recognize a lot of the Spanish whites. White wines are still 20 percent of sales. Amar: I love a good Albariño! How many employees? Ahmed: About 60 total. We have a great crew here, and the back of the house really reflects the opportunity to learn from Amar. Wine training? Ahmed: Once a month to look at the new wines on the menu, and if we are introducing a new dish, we also discuss the wine pairing. If they taste it, then the description to the guest is authentic. Any plans to open another Vaca? Ahmed: We are always looking at our options. Vaca is just over a year old and we are really happy with the way it runs and has been received. I think there is a good possibility that we will open a second location in the next few years. Is there something about the world of wine that irritates you? Ahmed: Yes, the repetition in style mainly in California Chardonnay: oaky, sweet, buttery. We are always looking for something that has more of an individual identity. What about the wine list has surprised you the most. Amar: We sell a lot of Sherry. We also make our own vermouth here, which has proved to be a huge success. I worked on the cocktail recipe for months until we got it just right. Gentlemen, I'm sitting, dining and imag- ining I am back in Spain. Your cuisine is exciting and you both are having so much fun I almost want to go back on the floor again. Well, maybe not . . . "We are always looking for [a California Chardonnay] that has more of an individual identity." —Ahmed Labbate