The Tasting Panel magazine

April 2017

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24  /  the tasting panel  /  april 2017 L ots of news from Ireland last time, so to redress the balance of the Scotch Report, plenty of Scotch info this issue—but I can't let the release of Bushmills Red Bush pass unnoticed. Aimed at "frequent bourbon fans and first time Irish whiskey drinkers" the new whiskey is a $23 blend of triple-dis- tilled Irish single malt and fine Irish grain whiskey that offers an accessible entry to Irish whiskey for new consum- ers interested in experiencing the Bushmills Irish Whiskey character and flavor profile. For the first major release from this iconic distillery under its new owners, the choice of a mass-market positioning is an aggressive one in an increasingly crowded market. The Scots though are, in general, aiming for a more upscale consumer. Typical of the latest releases is the latest batch, the second, of the Tamdhu Batch Strength releases, imported by Impex Beverages. It's a mighty 58.5% ABV dram, non-chill-filtered and natural color, of course, full of the distinctive, rich Sherry cask Tamdhu character. However, what's really coming soon is the distillery's oldest-ever expression, a Tamdhu Fifty Year Old, launched at an Edinburgh black tie dinner. Such venerable whiskies are rare and expen- sive—prices are yet to be confirmed but expect a $20,000+ shelf price. I hope to have more details and my own tasting notes next issue. The Glen Moray distillery will shortly be celebrating its 120th anniversary and to mark that Master Distiller Graham Coull has created the Mastery edition, available through Prestige Beverage Group of St. Paul, MN, using whisky from five distinctive vintages, matured in a variety of fortified wine casks across the different decades. Prices also subject to confirmation. But the main excitement, at least as far as I'm concerned, is the annual release from Diageo of the John Walker Private Collection 2017 Edition, Mastery of Oak. This is the fourth edition in a series that showcases the Walker house style and the innovative spirit and craft of its blenders through small batch, one-off blends of rare and experimental whiskies. The blending team is led by Dr. Jim Beveridge, and each year he mentors one of his younger colleagues through this showpiece project. That's a serious apprenticeship with one of Scotland's most renowned blenders: in 2016, he was named Master Blender of the Year by the International Whisky Competition for the second consecutive year, a first in the competition's history. Supplies are inevitably limited by the rarity of the whiskies used. Though 5,588 bottles sounds like a good supply this has to meet global demand and the reputation of this project among the many Johnnie Walker enthusiasts and collectors has rightly grown with each year of the project. As the Mastery of Oak title implies, the aim with this 2017 release was to demonstrate the varying impact of dif- ferent casks and their effects on matur- ing whiskies to the final blend. If that sounds a little academic, don't be put off: The result is a masterful but wholly enjoyable whisky that can be savored without a lifetime's study, though I suggest connoisseurs will enjoy it even more with a little background reading! Detailed tasting notes would fill this column, so I'll simply say that I believe that this is the best yet in the series and one that Walker enthusiasts should hurry to track down. The whisky would satisfy the most demanding aficionado, and the stylish, understated packaging will enhance almost any bar setting. The challenge will be to find a bottle, as supplies to the U.S. are initially limited to travel retail outlets with a suggested SRP of $815. However, some U.K. whisky specialists have it listed for under $700. Perhaps a long weekend in London would be a great investment! SCOTCH REPORT Big Hitters by Ian Buxton Each year, Master Blender Dr. Jim Beveridge mentors one of his younger colleagues and develops John Walker Private Collection 2017 Edition, Mastery of Oak.

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