Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/807384
april 2017 / the tasting panel / 103 Vineyards, along with a group of investors including Pete Scott, the former CFO of Beringer Wine Estates, and Walt Klenz, former President and CEO of Beringer Wine Estates. The current owners are nurturing Gary Farrell's legacy of producing small lots of varietally expressive and regionally distinctive Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays at the brand's beautifully designed winery on Westside Road. Heredia, a highly respected winemaker in her own right, has long specialized in small-lot, single-vineyard wines and joined Gary Farrell Winery in 2012. "I must admit that taking over the winemaking at a winery with a 30-year track record was a very daunting task in the beginning," remembers Heredia. "I definitely didn't want to 'think outside the box' so much that I would completely change the style. But at the same time, I felt confident that picking slightly earlier, utilizing whole clusters and implementing extended maceration techniques, to take a few examples, could only improve the quality of already great wines. I introduced new techniques in moderation and spent a great amount of time in the vineyards, tasting the grapes to make sure my picking decisions were respectful of the grape and the place. One thought helped to alleviate some of the pressure that I put on myself: All wineries need to evolve over time, and it was that time for Gary Farrell Winery." Now, into its 35th year, there is a lot of noise and bustle surrounding the Gary Farrell Winery, with a renovated tasting room and a series of stylish new wines helping bring the luster of the label's earlier days. Fruitful, long-term partnerships with the owners of the great vineyards of the RRV have assured Gary Farrell Winery access to the highest-quality raw materials and made its name synony- mous with the finest the Russian River Valley AVA has to offer. These relationships include Rochioli, Allen, Olivet Lane and Hallberg. In fact, Gary Farrell Winery has been working with the famed Rochioli and Allen vineyard for the past 35 years. Many prestigious new vineyards have been added to the portfolio since 2011, including Ritchie, Bacigalupi, Durell, Martaella, McDonald Mountain, Gap's Crown and Fort Ross Seaview. And the GFW team continues to scout for more. All of the vineyards from which the winery sources, regardless of name rec- ognition or the cost of the fruit, also become components of the Russian River Selection Chardonnay and Russian River Selection Pinot Noir blends. In fact, Heredia makes the Russian River Selection blends first, taking three weeks on each one—an unusual approach to an appellation blend, but the quality of the wine is clear in the finished wines. "Gary Farrell Winery produces the 'Grand Crus' of the Russian River Valley," says Bailey. "Year in and year out, our wines achieve the pinnacle of wine quality and regional typicity to be found in the appellation. But we're not resting on our laurels. With new vineyards coming online and the various experiments we're conducting, our wines will continue getting better and better." The 2014 Vintage "The 2014 vintage was one of the best and earliest recorded starts to harvest in the past decade," explains Winemaker Theresa Heredia. "We were extremely grateful for another amazing vin- tage despite the ongoing drought conditions, which contributed to lower yields, smaller berries, great intensity and tremendous concen- tration of flavors. The wines from 2014 have great balance, structure, concentration, and most of them are well below 14 percent alcohol, with excellent aromatics." Gary Farrell Winery 2014 Russian River Selection Chardonnay ($35) Fresh citrus and just ripe green apple abound in this wine, with a palate that mingles creamy vanilla and caramel, with just a touch of brûlée on the finish. 92 Gary Farrell Winery 2014 Chardonnay, Olivet Lane Vineyard ($45) Seriously complex, this wine is a cornucopia of citrus and spice. Meyer lemon, tangerine blossom and bosc pear meld perfectly with nuances of cassia and white peppercorn. 94 Gary Farrell Winery 2014 Russian River Selection Pinot Noir ($45) Lively, lithe and bursting with red fruit (strawberry confit and ripe raspberries), with a touch of tea leaf and an elegant, refined finish. 94 Gary Farrell Winery 2014 Pinot Noir, Hallberg Vineyard ($55) Bright cherry and spice, layered with notes of clove, cedar and forest floor. 96 PHOTO COURTESY OF PELLEGRINI WINE CO. The Olivet Lane Vineyard is the source of one of several Gary Farrell single- vineyard Chardonnays.