Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/807384
april 2017 / the tasting panel / 101 Fault Line Vineyard lies at the southern end of the Umpqua Valley and power- fully illustrates the dramatic climactic variations between the three sub-zones of the region. The vines cling to slopes with grades as steep as 42 percent in some places, with the backbone of the Klamath–Coastal Range fault running through the estate. Hidden in this flight is Bodega Numanthia's 2009 Numanthia Toro, a handsome wine that feels both modern and traditional at the same time. Chef Rucker chose a seared Peking duck breast served over herbed taleggio polenta with spicy onions marinated in balsamic and bay currant relish to play opposite this last flight. The dish was simply yet elegantly garnished with viridian green nastur- tium leaves and perfectly mirrored the earthy, concentrated tones in the wines. All of the Tempranillos in the flight were inky and opaque, the color of oxblood leaning toward brick on the oldest wine in the lineup: Abacela's stately 2005 Reserve. I found myself jotting descriptors into my notebook as quickly as I could write them. Dusty earth, plums, black cherries, Christmas cake, leather, char, blood. All three examples from Abacela showed nice typicity, with grippy, mouth-coating tannins and an earthen core com- mingling with spice, black tea and warm wicker. Experiencing them was like tasting something from the Rioja, both in countenance and character. It was no surprise then that voters were convinced that the 2005 Reserve was indeed the outlier. "It was so bloody and earthy and sanguine," said Andy Diaz, owner of the Blackbird Wineshop in Northeast Portland. The surprise evident in his voice, he said, "It was a challenge to nail it down. With the first sip, I was sure it was a Rioja Gran Reserva." Other tasters shared similar thoughts. "The organization of this tasting and the venue has been remarkable," remarked Ellen Landis, a Vancouver-based certified sommelier and wine judge. "This tasting has showcased the purity, age-worthiness and spot-on varietal correctness [of Umpqua Valley wines]." When asked if she had a favorite, Landis cocked her head to one side for a moment, then replied, "The intensity of fruit in the 2009 Abacela Tempranillo was just incredible." Following the tasting, I chatted with the winemakers. "Southern Oregon has something that California doesn't have—it has a short, seven-month growing season. Our growing season length is very similar to the best viticul- tural regions in Europe,"proffered Earl Jones. "Whatever grape fits within that biological cycle does well in Southern Oregon. We have a wide diurnal swing that's not a good fit for every grape in the world. Cabernet Sauvignon doesn't like it, but there are many varieties that need it—those are the ones that thrive in Southern Oregon. Viognier, Albariño, Tempranillo, Syrah and Grenache—grown here, they are exquisite. Why? They have enough acid to give structure to the wine. Our wines are distinctive with great flavors." "I was so pleased with how the Umpqua Valley wines showed in this tasting," added Stephen Reustle. "They measured up to 90-plus-point European wines. That's the standard we have to look to for how our wines should be crafted. When we poured our Syrah, only two people out of 20 could pinpoint the Crozes-Hermitage. That was eye-opening for me." As Stephen points out, "I think we need to embrace the diversity we have here. That's a big task; its tough to educate the industry about a region as small as ours, that is diverse enough to grow and mature grapes in all of these heat unit ranges. That's one of the rea- sons why we're excited to host SOMM Camp this spring." (Look for a report on The Umpqua Valley SOMM Camp in a future issue of our sister publication, The Somm Journal. –Ed.) The fact that Umpqua Valley lies in the shadow of its well-established sister region to the north poses something of a marketing challenge. So, too, does its inherent diversity—that rare ability to grow both cool- and warm-climate varieties at the level of quality illus- trated by this tasting is as surprising as it is difficult to distil. I liken the Umpqua to a region such as Alsace— where the blurred line of its nationality gives rise to diversity as much as its complicated geology; it too is a region that has been tumbled and turned by the fault line that transverses its length. Alsace will perhaps never eclipse Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it has its ardent fans. It has a well-earned place on the international stage. I suspect, in time, the same will hold true for the wines of the Umpqua Valley. Associate Winemaker Wade Smith with Winemaker Stephen Reustle, both from Reustle–Prayer Rock Vineyards. Hilda and Earl Jones of Abacela. Yvonne Smith, Wine Steward, Fred Meyer Hollywood West.