Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/713388
Summer 2016 The Costume Designer 31 Practical Application Costume Designer and founder of online boutique Bead & Reel, Sica Schmitz was first introduced to ethical and sustainable fash- ion while assisting CD Rebecca Luke. Luke had started incorpo- rating items from local and smaller designers, as well as organic fabrics, into projects she designed and talked about the ethos with Schmitz while they worked together. After that, Schmitz became mindful of how mass market clothing was at odds with her own philosophies. In making the transition away from mass market clothing, she realized how difficult it was to find ethical clothing. An incident where she couldn't find boots that were both vegan and ethically made was the final catalyst that caused her to set about creating her shop, which offers ethical and sustainable womenswear in a range of styles. Sourcing vendors to stock her shop made for a steep learn- ing curve. Because ethical fashion has become a hot-button topic, Schmitz had to figure out how to best differentiate between designers who were on the level and those who were greenwashing, i.e., paying lip service to sustainability by either Rana Plaza, including adequate fire doors, sprinklers, fire alarms, and fire hoses, had not been fulfilled. Sadly, unsafe factories are only one aspect of the deplorable working conditions in the industry. Garment workers, both over- seas and in well-hidden sweatshops in the U.S. all too frequently contend with excessive working hours, cramped and overpriced living quarters, and rampant union busting. While extremely low wages are the norm across the industry, countless reports over the last ten years continue to reaffirm that production in the counterfeit goods market (i.e., the faux Marc Jacobs, Vuitton, and Chloé purses in Santee Alley that are so useful when accessorizing extras) is rife with child slavery and human trafficking. In terms of negative environmental impact, the garment industry is second only to the petroleum industry. The commu- nities surrounding factories bear the brunt of toxic rivers and air pollution (these factories are hardly LEED-worthy) and have little or no resources to fight back; there's the grim joke: If you want to know what Pantone's next colors of the year will be, go look at the rivers in China. Due to the intricate nature of the supply stream, among other factors, holding companies accountable, legally or in the court of public opinion, has been all but impossible. With end- less outsourcing and third- and fourth-party vendors, the system is inherently set up to stymie transparency. The Rise of Ethical Fashion In the simplest of terms, sustainability is meeting the needs of the current generation without sacrificing the resources needed by the next. As the damage done by the mass market apparel industry permeates into the social consciousness, the demand for better options will only continue to grow. For anyone wanting to dress their characters, or themselves, in responsibly made garments, the choices have long since outgrown the cliché of hemp and hippie-wear. Everything from one-of-a-kind jeans, to bridal col- lections and business suits is available from designers dedicated to putting workers and the environment on par with their profit margin. As is the case in many other industries, new technologies and education have made sustainable garment manufacturing a profitable business model. Because the minimum runs in many overseas factories start around 10,000 pieces, several up-and- coming labels have opted to manufacture in the U.S. again, where smaller production runs make entering the market a safer gamble. Rishi Bali, CEO of YogaSmoga, an upscale athletic- wear brand currently being touted as serious competition to Lululemon, cites better quality control by having local access to their factory and the ability to train their stitchers to properly handle high-tech new fabrics as additional reasons they chose to build their product line stateside. As a result, Massachusetts, once second only to Manchester, UK, in textile production, is experiencing a renaissance, with mills shuttered for decades reopening over the last couple of years. Additional Resources • Story of Stuff Initiative to address Western con- sumer culture. Film series provides a primer into sustainability on all fronts. www.storyofstuff.org • Clean Clothes Campaign European alliance of trade unions and NGOs dedicated to improving working conditions in the garment industry by educating consumers, lobbying companies and governments and offering direct support to workers. www.cleanclothes.org • Ecouterre Website devoted to the future of sustain- able fashion design. www.ecouterre.com • Ethical Consumer's Product Guide (UK based) Tool that provides metrics on clothing brands based on what values are most important to you (fair trade, organic, cruelty-free, etc.) www.ethicalconsumer .org/buyersguides/clothing/clothesshops.aspx • MySource (UK based) Platform under development that will match fashion professionals with the sus- tainable raw materials and other resources to build more sustainable garments. www.mysource.io • Apparel Resources Sourcing platform for the tex- tile supply stream, also provides news, features, analysis, retail and sourcing trends of the apparel and textile industry. www.apparelresources.com • Solidarity Center NGO devoted to promoting safe and healthy workplaces, family-supporting wages, social protections, and a voice on the job across the globe. www.solidaritycenter.org