Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/688647
94 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2016 SEMINAR: TOEING THE LINE FOR VINE TO WINE: SUSTAINABLE VINICULTURE 101 City: Atlanta by Jessie Birschbach / photos by Jamie Hopper "Pass this around," said Pacific Rim's winemaker Nicolas Quille, handing off a cow's horn; "it smells horrible." Even despite this always being a part of Quille's presentation on sustainable viniculture, it was still one of the CAC's most popular seminars. Quille explained that the concept of biodynamics was created by an Austrian named Rudolf Steiner in 1924 in response to a group of farmers who had requested his help, concerned about the future of agri - culture. "There are three main principles of biodynamics. The first you have to remember is homeopathic methods—meaning that a very small dose of something natural will build your resistance, rather than using massive amounts of chemicals. Secondly, you farm as a closed entity. A farm should only be exporting things, not importing. No gasoline. No insecticides, nothing! After all, the earth is a limited entity. The third and last is the focus on the life forces—such as interactions with animals and men, or interaction with each other, or with the seasons, or the one that everyone starts to think goes a little too far—interaction with the cosmos. All three of these concepts are addressed and condensed into what's called 'preparations.''' One of these preparations, called preparation 500, was cow manure. This cow manure, which surprisingly smelled much better than the cow horn (another preparation), "activates the soil, according to Quille. After several other preparations were passed around like hot potatoes, and a discussion on the stringent requirements of becoming Certified Biodynamic via the Demeter Association, Inc., we got around to drink - ing some wine, in particular the minerally Pacific Rim Solstice Vineyard Riesling, which was the 100% handpicked, old-vine (planted in 1972) small-production, single-vineyard Riesling from Yakima Valley. Noelia Orts, winemaker for Chile's Emiliana Organic Vineyards, added another dimension. "Every insect is there for a reason, every animal. We must do our best to return the vineyards to their natural state. For me, one of the most important aspects of biodynamics is the life in the soil. This is the only way the plants will truly represent their terroir." Emiliana, established in 1986, is the single largest source of estate- grown organic wines in the world. We tasted both the Emiliana Signos de Origen (a creamy blend of Chardonnay, Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne) and the rich and boldly balanced Coyam (Syrah, Carménère, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mouvèdre and Petit Verdot). Noelia closed with perfect imitation of the hawks they use as pest control; naturally the hawk had a bit of Spanish accent. Castello Banfi Cellar Master Gabrielle Pazzaglia reviewed Castello Banfi's climb towards environmental sustainability. "You must have eco - nomic responsibility along biodynamic responsibility." Pazzaglia compared the economic status of Montalcino before Castello Banfi and after ; since Headmaster Eric Crane (Director of Training & Business Development, Empire Distributors) colors the in Sustainable Viniculture seminar. The wines of "Toeing the Line from Vine to Wine seminar: Pacific Rim "Solstice Vineyard" Riesling, Emiliana "La Vinilla," Castello Banfi Poggio alle Mura Rosso di Montalcino, and Emiliana Coyam.