Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/688647
34 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2016 { discoveries } TRAVELING ITS 65 MILE LENGTH FROM NORTH TO SOUTH IS LIKE EXPERIENCING the best wine regions of Europe in a single day, they say, where award-winning Albariño, Gewurztraminer*, Grüner Veltliner, Syrah and Tempranillo wines await, swirled and sipped at wineries with names like Abacela, Brandborg and Reustle. Only you wouldn't be gazing out at the Douro, Danube or Mosel rivers. You'd be in the heart of Oregon's Umpqua Valley. Wedged between the cool Willamette to the north and the warm Rogue to the south, the Umpqua Valley AVA (est. 1984) is colloquially referred to as "the 100 Valleys of the Umpqua" for its diversity of microclimates, fault-lined tectonic geology, 150 soil types and rustic undulations carved by the meandering Umpqua River. Yet it is the dramatic diurnal difference in temperatures within the Umpqua that governs terroir and renders it possible to grow a wide variety of cool- and warm-climate grapes. Dr. Gregory V. Jones, a research climatologist at Southern Oregon University, describes the Umpqua's climate as "remarkable"—with roughly 1,000 growing degree days (GDDs) difference between the cool north and the warm south. "What is so fascinating about the Umpqua is our ability to plant varieties you normally don't associate with Oregon," echoed Stephen Reustle, owner and winemaker at Reustle–Prayer Rock Vineyards. "Many people think Oregon only produces Pinot Noir. Imagine their surprise when my Syrah won first place at the 6 Nations Wine Challenge in Sydney, Australia!" (See the February/March 2016 issue of The Somm Journal for the story). Reustle and his wife, Gloria, along with Terry and Sue Brandborg of Brandborg Vineyard & Winery and Earl and Hilda Jones of Abacela Vineyards, are among the vanguard of pioneers who heeded the siren song of the Umpqua and sowed their dreams, visions and resources in the valley. Collectively referred to as "The Big Three" for their dedication to quality and regional development, individually their wines represent an intriguing cross-section of styles from the various microclimates. Brandborg boasts the coolest maritime climates in the Umpqua as evidenced by years of climate reports—perfect for Pinot Noir, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Grown on 50 acres of ancient marine sediment and sandstone soils just 25 miles from the Pacific Ocean at eleva - tions ranging from 750 to 1,150 feet, Brandborg's Pinot Noir is lithe, seductive and beautifully perfumed; the Gewurztraminer and Riesling aromatic, racy and refreshing. "Our winemaking philosophy never strays far from the dinner table," said Terry Brandborg. "We strive to achieve balance, elegance, minerality, and true varietal character." Reustle recalls how an internet real estate ad entitled "Vineyard Potential" led him to the The Umpqua: Sue and Terry Brandborg. PHOTO: COURTESY OF BRANDBORG VINEYARD HOW AN UPSTART AVA AND ITS "BIG THREE" WINERIES ARE REDEFINING OREGON'S WINES by Cliff Rames A view of Reustle Vineyards in Umpqua Valley, Oregon during autumn. Gewurztraminer, Syrah, Tempranillo and the "100 Valleys" *In the Umpqua as in Alsace, Gewurztraminer is usually spelled without the umlaut.