The SOMM Journal

June / July 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  35 Prayer Rock Vineyard property. "To most eyes," he laughs, "there was no potential; there was never a vineyard there before." Undaunted and inspired by an experience he had in Austria, Reustle scrutinized heat unit accumulation data and decided the Umpqua was perfect for Grüner Veltliner. In 2001 he purchased the 200-acre site and planted the first commercial Grüner crop in the United States. Reustle was immediately impressed with its fruit and crisp acidity. Critics agreed, and Reustle has since garnered nearly two dozen medals for Grüner, with over 500 awards across a portfolio that includes Malbec, Pinot Noir, Sémillon, Syrah and Tempranillo. "We make wines we like to drink at home, with food, around the table with family and friends," says Reustle of his winemaking philosophy. Earl Jones and his wife, Hilda, always loved Tempranillo for its struc - ture, ageability and food-friendliness. Their passion for the variety led them on a journey from their home in Florida to Spain and ultimately to southern Oregon. In 1995, after meticulous research and climatic studies, Jones planted Tempranillo in the Umpqua—the first commer- cial planting in the Pacific Northwest. The gamble paid off: Abacela's 1998 Tempranillo won Double Gold at the 2001 San Francisco International Wine Competition, besting Spain's top Tempranillo wines. Today, Jones cultivates 76 acres across three zones: the flat, sun- soaked Benchlands for Tempranillo; the warmer Southern Slopes for Syrah, Tannat, and Port varieties; and the cooler Northern Slopes for Albariño (the vineyard straddles an ancient fault line). In 1961, Richard Sommer dared to plant Oregon's first Pinot Noir vineyard. True to his pioneering spirit, the Umpqua Valley is now home to 23 wineries and almost three thou - sand acres of vineyards, cultivated by a close-knit, passionate group of visionary winemakers. Like the shift - ing ground below them, they are col- lectively reshaping the landscape of Oregonian viticulture and awakening palates to the unique, food-friendly wines of the "100 Valleys of the Umpqua." TASTING NOTES Brandborg 2013 Gewurztraminer, Umpqua Valley ($18) Gorgeous and aromatic; an entic- ing potpourri of candied tangerine peel, lychee, English rose and tar t apple invite sip after sip; pleasantly sweet at first, followed by blazing acidity and a mouth-filling freshness with last - ing honeysuckle, Asian pear, and exotic spice notes. Brandborg 2012 Pinot Noir, Ferris Wheel Estate Vineyard, Umpqua Valley ($38) Seductive, alluring and profoundly pretty; evokes sweet forest fruits, violets, tobacco smoke and cotton candy; bright and balanced, graceful and feminine, with silky tannins and elegant, enduring finish. Abacela 2014 Albariño, Umpqua Valley ($21) From the estate Fault Line Vineyards; clean, bright and fruity; vibrant aromas of peach compote, lime, sea salt and a hint of white flowers; at first soft and juicy, then fin - ishing sleek and tart, with zesty citrus, Granny Smith apple, white pepper and wet river stone minerality. Abacela 2012 Barrel Select Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley ($32) Aged in French oak (44% new); deeply colored; intense, compel - ling aromas of brambly ripe blackberry, violet, brandied cherry, leather and smoked sea salt; velvety but juicy texture, backed by fine tan- nins and dark mineral core, give way to layers of black cherry, plum compote, anise, mocha and sweet smoke. Reustle 2014 Grüner Veltliner, Revelation & Sorek Bloc, Prayer Rock Vineyards, Umpqua Valley ($24) Rich yet perky, with melon, flint, chamomile, dried honey, lanolin and white pepper ; round, juicy with an unctu - ous texture balanced by mouth-tingling acidity and silty minerals. Reustle 2013 Syrah, Masada Bloc, Prayer Rock Vineyards, Umpqua Valley ($32) Lovely notes of juicy black cherry, elderberry, candied violets, black pepper and cured meat smoke; juicy and fresh on the palate, with tantalizing tension between tannins, acid and sweet, oak-kissed blueberry fruit; long, luscious mineral-backed finish. PHOTO: COURTESY OF ABACELA PHOTO: COURTESY OF ABACELA PHOTO: ALEXANDER RUBIN COURTESY OF REUSTLE–PRAYER ROCK VINEYARDS Umpqua Valley owner- winemaker Stephen Reustle of Reustle Vineyards. PHOTO: ALEXANDER RUBIN Abacela's Fault Line Vineyards. PHOTO: COURTESY OF ABACELA PHOTO: COURTESY OF REUSTLE–PRAYER ROCK VINEYARDS

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