Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/648009
6 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t IN THE KITCHEN: "We use modern techniques here at Market 17, but only when necessary," says DeShields. "It's hard to beat traditional cooking methods. My focus and food philosophy is to keep it simple. If you start with amazing ingredients you don't have to do much to them to make a great dish." DeShields says that she also works with talented farmers that make her job a great deal of fun. At the core of her cooking philosophy is the idea that "it's about asking what can you take away from the dish that will make the dish even better," something she learned from Chef Josh Skenes from Saison in San Francisco. ough a Floridian to the core, DeSheilds found great inspiration working in San Francisco. "Food is their culture out there. You go to the farmers market and get what you need for the day. You go to the bakery for your bread and the butcher shop for your meats. Everyone has a specialty . . . and it was so great being out there and cooking. I try to bring that back here by using farmers that specialize in certain areas," she says. THE PAIRING: "We have always carried Banfi wines. We love their biodynamic wines and the practices and sustainability that goes into their wines," says DeShields. "Currently the restaurant pours the Sartori 'Regolo' Corvina from Veneto as part of our extensive by-the-glass program. However, there are many other Banfi wines featured by the bottle on our wine list." "When working on a pairing I like to begin with thinking about some of the foods and flavors of the region," says DeShields. "e Castello Banfi 2010 Brunello di Montalcino I chose is power- ful, but elegant. e acid is elevated which is great for food pairings, but the tannins are definitely on the firm side without being too aggressive. I wanted to work with a lean game meat, so I chose bison. e dark red fruit notes of the wine made me realize I wanted to work with a slightly smokier tomato aioli. e earthy notes of truffle and tobacco seemed a natural pairing for a sau- sage farrotto. My goal with the dish is to have the food and wine work symbiotically." Chef LAUREN DESHIELDS LAUREN DESHIELDS grew up in Florida with a family that put a great deal of emphasis on food. She went to cooking school at John- son & Wales University in North Miami Florida. Just out of school, DeShields began working at 3030 Ocean in Fort Lauderdale under James Beard Award–winning Chef Dean James Max and Chef de Cuisine Paula DaSilva. The experi- ence there, which lasted three years, taught her to focus on "sourcing quality, local and seasonal ingredi- ents," she says. A move to San Francisco brought her to work at then Michelin two- star Saison (now a three-star), and also Michael Mina's RN74—both establishments dedicated to lo- cally sourced ingredients. She wet her Japanese and Korean chops at Namu and wasted no time knocking on doors at some of San Francisco's most lauded restaurants for any opportunity to stage. She managed to do so at Campton Place, Gary Danko, La Folie, One Market, Quince, Range, Slanted Door and Spruce, among others. But the pull of returning home to Florida was too much to resist, and at age 25 she moved back to take on the role of Chef de Cuisine at 3800 Ocean, a modern American seafood restaurant in Singer Island. Leaving on the best of terms, she took a job 1 Lauren DeShields, Executive Chef, Market 17, Palm Beach. RYAN STONE RYAN STONE Grilled bison strip loin roasted garlic pork sausage farotto, melted leeks, dehydrated black olives, herb tip salad, smoked tomato aioli is paired with the Castello Banfi 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. RYAN STONE