Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/648009
w i n t e r / s p r i n g 2 0 1 6 | 6 7 We're in the midst of an excit- ing time in American dining culture. e rise of the social sommelier, a term I've seemed to coin (and one that blogger Steve Heimoff has taken me to task on), along with the somm's socially loud megaphones à la Facebook, Instagram, Twit- ter, wine apps Vinvino and Delectable, has a lot more people paying attention to wine's place in the restaurant—and that includes chefs. e rise in general of American wine culture is helping bring many more Americans into the fold of wine and food pairings—something that sommeliers and many chefs (particularly those at fine dining restaurants) take quite seriously. And though we may not like to admit it, the romantic notion that any glass of wine is great with any dish is simply a myth. ere are wines that do not pair well with certain foods, and it all comes down to the science of the pairing—the co-mingling of sweetness, umami, acidity, salt and bitterness in both the food and the wine. If you're one who loves to keep drinking that Bordeaux blend all the way through to dessert, watch out—the sweetness of most desserts will increase bitterness, acidity and astringency in that Caber- net-heavy wine you love so dearly, effectively rendering it a different and potentially unpleasant wine. Or, if you're one who has a bitter-tooth and can't get enough broccoli rabe or asparagus, you too will have pairing issues because the bitter flavors of those vegetables will increase the bitterness in your wine, possibly impacting your entire dining experience, even elevating the bitterness in your tone—which ex- plains why most of your meals end in ridiculous bitter squabbles. If only you had asked for more salt. Salt seems to rectify just about any pairing dilemma because salt in foods will decrease bitterness, acidity and astringency, while increasing the richness of a wine. With Italian wine, most reds—which are the focus in these pairing stories—are typically high in alcohol, tannin and acidity, and traditional Italian cuisine tends to err on the side of simple ingredients and prepa- ration, but with bold flavors and personality. ese four chefs have taken a fairly complex approach to their dishes, but with the intention of elevating the flavors of the dish and the wine, when married together on the palate. If you live near any of these restaurants, I hope you'll make a reservation and that you ask for the Cru Artisan pairing—just be sure to bring a copy of e Clever Root, because I suspect you'll be so impressed that you'll want the chef 's autograph to make complete the experience of an artfully planned, and thoroughly enjoyed, wine and food pairing. T hree years ago Lars Leicht, Banfi Vintners' Director of Communications, helped found the Cru Artisan College as a means of con- solidating winemaker visits to the U.S. To help kick off the 2016 tour, Banfi's Cru Artisan Wines selected four chefs from four major markets— Miami, Texas, New York and Atlanta—to call out their favorite Cru Artisan wine and to create a dish that would pair perfectly with their wine of choice. at dish and pair- ing will appear on the restau- rant's menu. ese four incredibly talented chefs have fascinating stories, which we've chronicled below along with their dish and pairing. w i n t e r / s p r i n g 2 0 1 6 | 6 7