The Clever Root

Winter / Spring 2016

Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/648009

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8 0 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t Deconstructing DISHES o u PHOTO: MERRILL SHINDLER PHOTO: 1789 RESTAURANT by Merrill Shindler Exuding an air of old money and D.C. power, 1789 Restaurant sits in the heart of Georgetown, a renovated Federal-style house filled with early American antiques, historical and equestrian prints on the walls and Limoges china on the ta- bles. The menu is constructed to warm the hearts of politicians, diplomats and lobbyists alike— a land of foie gras torchon, Alba white truffle gnocchi, Cervena venison loin and 35-day dry- aged New York strip. This is not a restaurant where you'd expect to find a vegetarian dish with the rural name Forager's Bounty. But it's a name Executive Chef Samuel Kim, a veteran of The Modern and Craft in New York, liked for his sin- gular meatless entrée. And there's truth in adver- tising here—for much of this dish really was for- aged—though in a proper farm-to-table manner. Executive Chef Samuel Kim of 1789 Restaurant in Washington, D.C. Forager's Bounty AT 1789, WASHINGTON, D.C.

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