Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/648009
4 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t I began to clarify my thoughts on the common threads among the great wines of the world. Here are five essentials to achieve excellence: 1. There is a family involved. When I think of the great wines of the world, they are almost always owned, led and/or managed by a family. Families generally have this wonderful way of clarifying and solidifying their ideals over time and then sharing and transferring them to the next generation. When daughters and sons, and then grandchildren and great-grandchildren, follow the family's vision, they have the possibility of advancing the family's ideals and reputation along with the alchemy that has al- lowed them to make great wines. 2. There is a vineyard involved. The family who owns the winery owns its vineyards. These are lo- cated in wine-growing regions and sub-regions that allow the grapes being farmed there to tell the tale of the place. I cannot think of one multi-generation- al great and important winemaker who doesn't own their own vineyards 3. The family members are passionately com- mitted to farming their vineyards to their greatest potential. This is where walking in and truly know- ing the vineyards counts. Is the soil biologically bal- anced and healthy? Are the vines naturally extract- ing the best that the soil has to offer? Is the canopy too thin or too dense—are the grape clusters getting enough air flow? Are there enough leaves to ripen the fruit? Hundreds of additional observations come into play—some obvious and some subtle. 4. There is an intelligent, passionate, skilled, John Terlato and Marco Simonit pruning vines at the famous Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. "I think you get the point. Farming is key. This is what puts the grapes on the path toward be- ing the foundation of a great and im- portant wine." IN THE VINEYARD with John Terlato