The Clever Root

Winter / Spring 2016

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W I N T E R / S P R I N G 2 0 1 6 | 4 7 What makes a wine great? It's a question I've been thinking about for some years now. My family has been involved in the fine wine business for more than 70 years. As a result, we have come to taste, know and appreciate the great wines of the world and the families who are inspired to craft these wines and who are the caretakers of the vineyards that produce these wines. In 2002, we purchased Sanford Winery, a historic and iconic vineyard and winery in Santa Barbara primarily focused on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This spurred me to want to learn more about these two grape varieties. So I traveled to Burgundy, the philosophical and ideological heart and home of Chardon- nay and Pinot Noir (think the Vatican, Mecca or Valleta). I fell in love with the place, the food, the people and their wines. But most importantly, I fell in love with the ideology as it relates to grape growing and winemaking—which is pure and unadulterated, focused on farming above all else. The Burgundians allow the vineyards and the varietals to tell their stories. I started to taste these amazing wines and brought these treasures home to share with my family. As I did so, my father Tony talked about his experiences from the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s with these wines, with the families making them and with his friends who were importing them to the United States. And these were not just passing observations—it be- came clear to me that he was as familiar with these families, their vineyards and their wines as I have become. And here is where the wheels started to turn. How is it possible that my father had tasted these wines in his youth, recognizing they were beautiful and well-made, and now 60 years later, the families who own these vineyards and domaines are still making wines that have retained their relevance? What was the ideology and thought process of the Franceschis of Tuscany, the Ramonets and Roumiers of Burgundy, the Lur Saluces and Rothschilds of Bor- deaux and others that helped them create such beloved and transcendent wines throughout the decades? by John Terlato / photos by Jeremy Ball Great nes Share The Sanford & Benedict 2013 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir. IN THE VINEYARD with John Terlato Common Traits Five

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