Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/597666
96 / the tasting panel / november 2015 Now, with new partners and strategic investment from Gruppo 21 Investimenti, led by Benetton, the family- owned Italian fashion brand, Farnese Vini has become one of Southern Italy's success stories, with sales of more than 50 million Euros and a record increase in volume in the last two years—50% increase in sales over just the past calendar year, says Andy Taylor of Chicago-based Vin Divino, which imports the Farnese portfolio. With 17 years of Sciotti at the helm, Farnese has received the Best Wines of the Year accolade seven times from Luca Maroni, author of Annuario dei Migliori Vini Italiani, who also named it Winery of the Year three times. The wines have won more than 40 gold medals and 12 trophies in global competitions. Best Practices The secret of their success lies in best practices that echo the best wine regions in Europe: small parcels, attention to terroir and microclimates, devotion to indigenous grapes and the trellising systems best suited for them, hand-harvesting in small baskets and low yields. The portfolio includes wines produced in DOC or DOCG appellations, some from old vines and others with organic viticulture. "One of the distinguishing points is the cooperative aspect of what they do," says Taylor. "They manage and dictate farming practices and it's really a thing of prestige as well as economic benefit to the growers to be chosen as part of the Farnese organization." He added, "Aside from having good controls, the grow- ers are multigenerational, so they have pride in what they're doing." Unlike other cooperative models, Farnese Vini does not pay growers by yield. Instead, the company rents and manages the vineyards directly under their so-called "Quality Project," which requires landowner/growers to commit to the rigorous program of Farnese agronomists and winemakers. The program is headed up by Farnesi winemakers, Alberto Antonini and Filippo Baccalaro, who hail from some of the worlds' top wineries— Antinori and Frescobaldi, Concha y Toro and Bodegas Nieto Senetiner among them. It's a win-win situation for all says Boston-based Steven Checca, Farnese's Export Manager in North America, who says that before signing on with Farnese, the growers could produce juice, but didn't necessarily have the know-how to make and promote wines for the export markets. "Now, we all share vineyards and investment in the technology," he says. The Abruzzo-born Checca says the partnerships give local growers a sense of entrepreneur- ship. The implied benefit: the forward-thinking model of Farnese Vini helps more traditional growers keep in step with the times and consumer preferences. "If you are so proud and cannot give up certain things, you might not succeed," he says. "You have to be versatile and understand when it's time to readjust." Farnese at Ristorante Fratelli Milano, Miami Serving Caldora Sangiovese and Vigneti di Salento Primitivo by the glass. Chef/owner Roberto Bearzi says that, though red wines can be hard to sell, he's seeing success with the Sangiovese and Primitivo because of their affordability and drinkability. "We sell a lot of the wine by the glass because you can drink it on its own," he says. "Everything is there—the fruit, the flavor and the price." The Caldora, in particular, is fruity and goes not only with meat, also but the fish, pasta and risotto dishes that are staples of his restaurant. "It's not too heavy on the taste. It's a younger wine." The Primitivo he'd pair with a New York Strip, a filet mignon with gorgonzola cheese, or Côte de Milanese—a veal cutlet with arugula and cheese. Co-owners of Ristorante Fratelli Milano in Miami: Chef Roberto Bearzi with his wife Fiorella. PHOTO: VANESSA ROGERS