Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/597666
november 2015 / the tasting panel / 97 D Farnese at Bricco, Boston Serving Vesevo Falanghina by the glass and bottle and Caldora "Yume" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo by the bottle. Wine Director Nick Vatistas recommends the Caldora "Yume" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo with all of their 35-day–aged Prime wood-fired steaks and aged cheeses, but says his personal favorite pairs "Yume" with the house braised lamb shank—braised in spices and red wine, alongside a minestra of flageolet beans with sage and tomatoes. Vesevo Falanghina, he says, is "crisp and aromatic, pairs easily and is a wine easily loved by all. It excels at our sister restau- rant, Mare Oyster Bar, because it comple- ments so many of our seafood dishes. "Although the wine does not see oak, it still has a decent body and can hold up to heavier seafood," he says, noting his favored pairing with crudo di tonno— spice-encrusted and seared rare. Attention to Detail Though, overall, its volumes are large—some 16 million bottles per year—Farnese's relationships with numerous smaller growers make it nimble. Working with small plots allows the viticulture team to monitor ripening and act quickly, harvesting grapes in as little as three days during the optimal ripening time. Such attention has paid off. In 1995, entry-level wines comprised 100 percent of the production; in 2012, 40 percent of the production was devoted to the premium and mid-range wine And the company has improved and maintained a quality-to-price ratio that make the wines attractive for by-the-glass programs, with wholesale bottle prices typically in the $12–15 price range. "Distributors are embracing it and recognizing the value," says Taylor. Chuck Podolski, Area Manager for M.S. Walker, which distributes Farnese in Massachusetts and other New England states, says "It's price and quality—no doubt about it." He says the backstory is a helpful sales tool. The way the company and growers work hand in hand is "a great story for a sophisticated group of wine buyers who are looking for a good reason to carry the wine," he says. "There's handful of people who really care about that kind of thing." And it's not just in the north or in traditional Italian communities where the wines have taken off. Roberto Volpe, Southeast Area Manager for Vin Divino, says in the Florida market, he's seeing a healthy demand for Primitivo and Sangiovese because of both the local vibrant Italian food culture and a population of "snowbirds" accustomed to drinking red wines. And, he says, "They over deliver for the price." With much of Italy already discovered, the future looks bright for Farnese as it keeps its focus on authenticity—from the land to the bottle. While the portfolio has made a splash in on-premise accounts, Taylor says that success will soon be leveraged for an off-premise push. "There appears to be a bit of an interest in Southern Italy at the moment," he says. A bottle of Vesevo Beneventano Falanghina at Bricco Ristorante on Hanover Street in Boston's North End. PHOTO: JOSH REYNOLDS Production: 16 million bottles, of which 90% is exported to 78 countries Red grapes: Montepulciano, Aglianico, Nero d'Avola, Nerello Mascalese, Primitivo and Negroamaro White grapes: Grillo, Pecorino, Greco, Fiano and Falanghina Regions: Abruzzo Brands: Fantini and Caldora What to look for: Sangiovese Campania Brands: Vesevo What to look for: Falanghina Puglia Brands: Vigneti del Salento What to look for: Primitivo and Falanghina Sicilia Brands: Vigneti Zabù and Cantine Cellaro What to look for: Nero d'Avola Farnese at a Glance