Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/5037
december 2009 / the tasting panel / 7 ability to see and seize opportunities such as the current trend for organic and biodynamic wines. In large part, the new Chile refl ects a philosophi- cal turn from factory to farm. Winemakers, who are agronomists fi rst, have returned to the land to work the vines and study the complex soils. Under- standing the fruit and the minerality is the fi rst thing most winemakers will talk about; marketing is the last. But that may change. Bolstered by the grow- ing interest in Carme- nère—Gomberg Fredrikson reports a 76 percent spike in sales January to July '09—and its potential to be the next Malbec, Chilean producers see a window of opportunity to remake their wine history and reclaim their identity. "It is a challenge that Chile has. We would all like Chile to be more developed in identity," says Felipe Cruz, Commercial Director at Seña Winery. "We want to tell the world that we could stand up to the great wines of France and Italy, but as a country, we are shy about marketing ourselves." But the success of their South American counter- part has Chileans think- ing about what they, too, could tap into as a national identity to help reinforce their wine culture. "Argentina has tango, sex and great food," says Ignacio Recabarren, winemaker at Concha y Toro. "Chile is more subtle. We depend on simple, natural things, which the world does not yet understand." But they soon might, if winemakers can bring the world to their mountains. Wine tourism, still a fl edgling industry here, is gaining traction, and next year's bud- gets, says Tieszen, will earmark funds for wine tourism marketing. With wineries littered throughout the 14 valleys, there's no formal wine route for tourists; instead, some are capitalizing upon their dramatic mountain land- scapes to build destination wineries such as that planned by Via Wines, featuring outdoor recreation, spas, authen- tic dining and accommodations that are both rustic and Antonio Bravo is one of South America's leading expo- nents of organic and biodynamic wines. He is the lead winemaker for Viñedos Emiliana, pioneering sustain- able practices for the winery's 3,000-plus acres of vine- yards in the premier grape-growing regions of Chile. THE TASTING PANEL met up with Bravo to savor the winery's icon reds, Coyam and "G" ("G" became the fi rst wine in South America to be certifi ed biodynamic, and Coyam soon followed). Emiliana's Coyam is an estate wine comprised of 34% Syrah, 31% Merlot and 17% Carmenère, with additional blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Mourvèdre. "G" is a single- vineyard red with a blend of 30% Carmenère, 30% Syrah, 24% Cab Sauv and 16% Merlot. Both hail from the Rapel Valley. Each wine is dense with deep, black fruit. Coyam is lushly textured with cassis creaminess, while "G" is a big boy, with savory truffl e and spice that lingers. —Meridith May Banfi Vintners Rodrigo Romero of Veranda Winery is one of the young winemakers exploring cool-climate wines in Bio-Bio, the southernmost wine-mak- ing region in Chile. Horacio Vicente Mena follows his father's footsteps at San Esteban Winery in the Aconcagua Valley. The winery is a pioneer in hillside-vine- yard planting. Bravo for Green Chilean winemaker Antonio Bravo leads the green initiative in South America. He is winemaker for Viñedos Emiliana.