The Tasting Panel magazine

Dec 09

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december 2009 / the tasting panel /  79 T he Kamptal has a surface under vine covering close to 10,000 acres—almost three times the size of the Wachau. With more wine produced here, value and quality go hand-in-hand. The best-known producers are Willi Bründl- mayer and Schloss Gobelsburg, but also take note of Sonnhof, Hirsch, Topf and Loimer, Kurt Angerer, Buchegger, Hiedler and Jurtschitsch. Although here, as eslewhere in Austura, wine production seems to be dominated by men, Birgit Eichinger runs her own winery with 23 acres of vineyard, turning out well-bal- anced, racy wines that really kick-start one's appetite. Riesling may win the popularity contest for varietal recognition, but the real headliner is Austria's own Grüner Veltliner. These wines are not as aromatic as Riesling, but offer a recognizable lean minerality and white pepper notes. These are wines to drink with fish and seafood, although Grüners on the richer side—some with honeyed weight and a touch of lentil or celery—are great companions to many white meat dishes as well. Although the Kamptal is white wine country, the red variety Zweigelt—Austria's most-planted red grape— should be mentioned. It normally produces typically "cool-climate wines," but in warmer years is capable of some cherry-fruited richness. Simply put, there are two kinds of soils in the Kamptal: primary rock, where Riesling feels at home, and loess, where the Grüner thrives, making it re- freshingly spicy. Warm-to-hot days promote grape maturity, while the nighttime flow of cooler air from the northern forests helps retain acidity and aromas in the grapes. In fact, the constant sunshine is often said to "burn like hell" by the Kamptal locals. One of the most iconic vineyards of the region, Heiligenstein, reflects that interpretation; its original name, "Hell's Rock," has evolved over time to "Rock of the Saints," because of its reputation for divine wines. Karl Jurtschitsch of Sonnhof emphasizes the climate as "the most impor- tant component for wine quality, and only then comes the soil." —Magnus Waern Austria A Quick Sip on The Kamptal If you are aware of Austrian dry white wines, then you are probably familiar with the Wachau district, situated just an hour's drive northwest of Vienna. But neighbor- ing Kamptal offers wines just as compelling—and elegant—as any in Austria Winery proprietor Birgit Eichinger and author Magnus Waern.

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