The Tasting Panel magazine

Dec 09

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N ew Zealand's wine history has been significantly—and positive- ly—influenced by the Croatian immigrants who arrived in the country at the turn of the last century and settled in northerly Auckland. The Brajkov- ich family, who immi- grated from the Dal- matian coast, founded what is now Kumeu River Wines in 1944. Today, third-genera- tion Michael Brajkovich serves as winemaker; he also became New Zealand's first Master of Wine in 1989. Chardonnay is a spe- cialty at Kumeu River. I tasted through some current Chardonnay releases with Michael last month. This is one of New Zealand's best producers of this vari- etal, with few rivals. Here are my notes; all these wines are made using wild yeast fermentation and carry a Kumeu appellation. 91 2006 Estate Chardonnay ($33) Smooth and creamy with good acidity and a long, juicy finish; lush and balanced, with pure, focused fruit. 93 2006 Chardonnay, Hunting Hill ($40) Pure and elegant with bright peach, cit- rus, flint and tangy acidity; fresh and evolved with subtle oak and great length. 93 2006 Chardonnay, Coddington ($40) Ripe and peachy with lovely texture and tangy acidity; long, rounded and full with elegance and intensity. 92 2007 Estate Chardonnay ($35) Silky and sleek with ripe, elegant fruit and long, juicy flavors; lovely texture, minerals and great length with a focused finish and keen balance. 94 2007 Chardonnay, Maté's Vineyard ($47) Juicy and minerally with inten- sity and high-toned acidity; citrus, toast and some weight; pure and racy, long and complex. Kumeu River is imported by Wilson Daniels. Chardonnay Rules at Kumeu River La Vieille Ferme From the Perrin family, the southern Rhône specialists. Vineyard Brands | Birmingham, AL | vineyardbrands..com "Because of the price, people sometimes forget how tasty the cuvées from La Vieille Ferme are. They are wines that never see any wood and are meant to be drunk in their exuberant youthfulness." Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Côtes du Ventoux Rouge "Stylish" – Best Value Côtes du Luberon Blanc "Fresh and clean" Côtes du Ventoux Rosé "A fresh, pure, stony rosé" Wine Spectator At K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, CA, owner Trey Beffa (left) tastes with Kumeu River's Michael Brajkovich, MW. PHOTO: CATHY TWIGG-BLUMEL

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