The Tasting Panel magazine

May 2017

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58  /  the tasting panel  /  may 2017 In addition, Rotari has phased out its non-vintage labels; moving forward it exclusively offers vintage-designated Brut and Brut Rosé. This bold initiative is designed to elevate the quality, distinction and accessibility of TrentoDOC* metodo classico and position Rotari as an attractive alternative to pricier Champagnes— and an intriguing, affordable option for consumers who wish to elevate their palates beyond inexpensive tank-method bubbly. But back to terroir. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2009, the lofty Dolomites lord over Trento like the walls of a massive amphitheater, attract- ing warm daytime air from the southern Adriatic Sea and drawing chilled evening air through the jagged passes that canyon the northern Alps. On terraces at elevations reaching 800 meters (2,700 feet) above sea level, Rotari cultivates nearly 2,000 hectares (4,900 acres) of estate-grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes in chalky soil. Winemaker Lucio Matricardi, Ph.D., says that Rotari wines are "forged by a mountain climate": the altitude and diurnal temperature variations help to preserve essential acidity and freshness, while exposure to the brilliant mountain sunshine nurtures perfect ripeness and purity of character. Rotari and the 44 other member wineries of the TrentoDOC take pride in pointing out that Trento is Italy's first DOC for classic method sparkling wine (granted in 1993; Franciacorta followed in 1995). Also, TrentoDOC regulations are more rigorous than rules that govern metodo classico or méthode champenoise production elsewhere. Foremost is a strict adherence to traditions and techniques characteristic of the Trento region, such as planting and pruning practices, yield control, hand-harvesting and principles of sustainability. But it is the traditional pergola trentina (Trentino pergola) of canopy management that distinguishes TrentoDOC—and Rotari. Old-school in design, these charming pergolas feature tall, Y-shaped supportive poles and a head beam from which wires extend to guide the vines. The result is a leafy overhead arbor—often tunnel-like when vineyard rows are long, or wavy when the vines straddle undulating hills—from which clusters of grapes dangle. Matricardi says the pergola system protects the fruit from over-exposure to the intense high-elevation sun and encourages air circulation, which whisks away rot-inducing moisture and mitigates temperature fluctuations to ensure ideal fruit development and ripening. Harvest typically occurs in late August. Once harvested, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are de-stemmed and soft-pressed to release the free run must. Primary fermentation occurs in large steel tanks, followed by six months of resting, malolactic fermentation and batonnage (stirring of the lees). Come springtime, the base wine is enriched with sugar and yeast, bottled with crown caps and horizontally stored while the second fermentation works its magic in bottle—the metodo classico! For riddling, Rotari's state-of-the-art winery features gyro-palettes that rotate up to 504 bottles at once. After disgorgement (removal of the dead yeast cells from the bottle), Matricardi adds Rotari's proprietary liqueur d'expédition. While components of the liqueur are secret, it includes a blend of barrique-matured older wines. "Our delicate mousse is obtained by aging on the lees after secondary fermentation," Matricardi explains, referring to Rotari's signature fine bead of bubbles. "This is a benchmark of our wine, and it makes Rotari unique among Italian sparkling wines." Aging requirements under TrentoDOC regulations mandate a minimum of 15 months on the lees for non-vintage, 24 months for vintage and 36 months for Riserva level wines. Rotari launched its vintage-designated Brut and Brut Rosé with the excellent 2013 vintage (its Riserva level, Flavio, is 2008). All three wines contain 9 g/l of residual sugar, which creates lip-smacking balance between fruit, acid, mineral and yeasty characteristics. "Drinking Rotari metodo classico makes every day feel like a special occasion," Matricardi likes to say. Dubbed the "sparkling wine from the mountains," Rotari is a perfect pick for restaurant by-the-glass programs—Il Mulino, a popular and prestigious Italian restaurant group with locations in New York, Florida and Las Vegas, currently features Rotari BTG—or simply sipped as a palate-stimulating aperitif or summer picnic quaffer. On terraces at elevations reaching 800 meters (2,700 feet) above sea level, Rotari cultivates nearly 2,000 hectares (4,900 acres) of estate-grown Chardonnay (pictured here) and Pinot Noir grapes in chalky soil.

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