Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/711666
98 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 In May, the success of exciting new styles of global Chardonnay and the growing awareness of some of the more classic California brands was celebrated by an impressive mixture of star sommeliers, wine collectors and general con- sumers who attended the annual International Chardonnay Symposium in San Luis Obispo County. As part of the festivities, I got the opportunity to moderate an impressive winemaker and grower panel sponsored by The Somm Journal at Edna Valley Vineyard with host winemaker Matt Steel, Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat, Eric Pooler of DeLoach Vineyards, Randy Bennett of Sojourn Cellars and Mark Williams of William Hill Estate Winery, which explored the new offerings of world-class Chardonnays made with fruit from pristine sites. Located five miles from the Pacific Ocean in the tranquil agricultural zone of Edna Valley, the original Chardonnay vines planted at Paragon Vineyard, the site of our panel, were part of a diverse mixture of 500 acres planted by the Niven Family in 1973. At the time, there were only 1,000 acres of the noble grape variety planted in California. But later that same decade, the amount rose to 7,000 acres and eventually, in 1988, surpassed the 45,000 acres planted in Burgundy. Over the years, one of the most dynamic Chardonnay plots at Paragon Vineyard has become Block 105, which is planted on its own roots. Although the valley has a relatively warm temperature in the early afternoon, the development of each cluster is kept in check by the strong influence of foggy morn - ings and late afternoon breezes blowing in from the ocean five miles away. This natural process helps preserve a high level of acidity as the berries ripen. For these reasons, Steel says he uses as little intervention as possible to capture the purity of fruit flavors from Block 105, which he bottles separately as the limited-release Edna Valley Vineyard Heritage Chardonnay. SPECIAL REPORT SPECIAL REPORT SPECIAL REPORT SPECIAL REPORT Regional Distinction EXPLORING THE WILD, WILD WEST THROUGH CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS by Christopher Sawyer / photos by Jeremy Ball Chris Sawyer takes a selfie with the winemaker panel: Edna Valley Vineyard's Matt Steel, Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat, Eric Pooler of DeLoach Vineyards, Randy Bennett of Sojourn Cellars and Mark Williams of William Hill Estate Winery. The panel was held at the picturesque Edna Valley Vineyard.