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76 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 Elevation and Topography Alexander Valley encompasses 60,000 acres of vineyards spanning from Cloverdale in the north to Windsor in the south, entertaining a ten-degree temperature difference between the two towns. This temperature difference, as well as varying levels of fog and substantial elevation deviations, make the vineyards, soils and terroirs quite diverse. No sub-appellations exist within Alexander Valley as of yet, but the winemakers make it clear that there should be three distinct areas: north, middle and south. Munselle confirmed, "To me, the decision is clear as day." As we sit in Rodney Strong's complex Rockaway estate, the vineyard itself comprised of ten separate blocks, to taste through our next flight of Cabernet Sauvignon, we look to find whether these distinctions can be tasted in the glass. Ryan Decker, Vineyard Manager for Rodney Strong Vineyards, and Jim Young, owner and Vineyard Manager of Robert Young Estate Vineyard and Winery, joined Master Sommelier Fred Dame and Educator Stefen Soltysiak to lead our panel on this morning. Decker, playing with a technologically superior mouse, used Google Earth to zoom in on each vineyard as we taste them. "2012 was the biggest crop in state history. With bigger crops, you get more hang-time, great complexity and flavor," remarked Decker. With that Munselle breaks into a wide grin. "Growers and winemakers were equally happy." Technically from the new Pine Mountain–Cloverdale Peak AVA high above the Alexander Valley floor, Francis Ford Coppola 2012 Archimedes launched the exploration on this day. "Everything is more extreme up there, so it's the last Cab to be picked, in early November," enlightened Munselle. That extra hang-time allows for physiological ripeness, presenting a wine with a floral note, medium body and dusty, pleasing tannins. Another high elevation vineyard wine, Stonestreet 2012 Rockfall, shows a completely different expression with ripe, dark fruit and overt glycerol to create a full body. Mid-level "complicated" vineyards like Rodney Strong's Rockaway yield horsepower : big, rich and texturally creamy wines with a strong contingent of just-ripe black currant, cassis, coffee, olive and plum and a hint of menthol and vanillin. Hoot Owl Creek, at a similar elevation, shows black cherry, crème de cassis and red plum skin with chewy tannins. Robert Young 2012 Scion delivers ripe blackberry and a silky mid-palate with an extremely long finish. "We have a lot more diversity in soil types on the hillsides," confirmed Jim Young, fourth generation to farm the land (his father holds the distinction of being the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Alexander Valley in 1963). Medlock Ames 2013 Kate's & B's, from the south end of the valley, gave way to an earthy, minty nose, dusty red fruit and bright acidity with its seamless but persistent tannins. We had six completely different wines here. The one commonality was a savory, herbal note—in the most complementary way. The immense differences between temperature, fog and elevation certainly were quite discernible. "Elevation's a funny thing—it's going to take us a while to figure it out. It is going to be a critical piece of developing California's AVA system," suspected Dame. A CLOSE-KNIT COMMUNITY Alexander Valley dates back to the 1840s when Cyrus Alexander settled in the area and received payment in the form of land from the Mexican government in exchange for managing it. A historic walking tour of Alexander's residence and an old schoolhouse on the Alexander Valley Vineyards prop - erty, followed by an enormous bounty at neighborhood Hoot Owl Creek Vineyards, replete with a bluegrass duo, felt like being invited into a special kinship. In fact, Munselle, Hawkes and Wetzel are all the same age and have known each other since they were chil - dren. Now, some of their children are in the same classes. An evening spent with new friends, delicious food and spec- tacular wines—we're beginning to see why Alexander Valley is a special place. Hank Wetzel produced Alexander Valley Vineyard's first wines in 1975 and the wine world quickly took notice of the elegant Cabernet Sauvignons from the southern end of Alexander Valley. Forty-two years later they are still known for the flavor profile that made the valley famous. AVV's Cabernet Sauvignon is a testament to Winemaker Kevin Hall's skill and the Alexander Valley's unique ability to grow amazing Cabernet. High atop the Jordan Winery estate. At Rodney Strong's Rockaway Vineyard the panel discusses elevation and topology. Left to right, Fred Dame, MS; Jim Young of Robert Young Vineyards; and Ryan Decker, Vineyard Manager for Rodney Strong Vineyards. 76 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016