Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/711666
{ SOMMjournal.com } 53 { the somms speak } The Côte Chalonnaise Daniel Johnnes, Wine Director for Daniel Boulud's Dinex Group, pro- prietor of Daniel Johnnes Wines and founder of the annual celebration of La Paulée de Bourgogne, leads us to the Côte Chalonnaise, bordered by the Côte de Beaune and the Mâconnais. It's an absolutely beauti - ful region of rolling hills with five Village appellations that are fairly well known in wine circles, but perhaps underappreciated. "That's the important part of discussing these wines today—how it's an important region, not in volume, but because of the quality of the wines and the value they offer," explains Johnnes. "You have clay- limestone terroir much like you have in the Côte de Beaune or Côte de Nuits, and you have Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and even Aligoté." In addition to the Régionale AOC Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, there are five Village AOCs. From north to south, Bouzeron, an AOC pro - duced with 100% Aligoté. AOC Rully is produced with both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the village of Rully is also known to be the cradle of Crémant de Bourgogne appellation. Mercurey AOC and Givry AOC, although best known for reputable Pinot Noir, produce impressive Chardonnay as well, while Montagny is a white-only AOC produced with 100% Chardonnay. Johnnes suggests we "taste like the Burgundians do—reds first." He selected wines he thought showed the quality and potential of the region, and was enthusiastic about his choices. "In the Côte Chalonnaise, you have different exposures that create microclimates that have a strong effect on the ripening of the grapes and the ultimate expression of the grapes." His first choice: the Aubert et Pamela de Villaine 2014 Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Digoine Rouge. "I chose this because de Villaine is such a leader in the Côte Chalonnaise;he's a real spokesman for the region, and he brings credibil - ity because of his commitment to it. He is the co-manager of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and as soon as someone like that produces a wine, everyone pays attention." We center on Mercurey AOC for Johnnes's next selection: the 2013 Mercurey Premier Cru Clos des Myglands by Faiveley. Established in 1825, Domaine Faiveley has been perfecting their craft for almost two centuries; the Clos des Myglands is a Monopole of the domaine. "You're getting Mercurey: it's a Premier Cru Climat, so you're getting a more serious expression. It's juicy and very well-balanced, and the tannins are very well integrated. There's a tremendous amount of pleasure here." We must finish, though, with Auber t et Pamela de Villaine 2014 Bouzeron, made with Aligoté. Aligoté has a little bit of a challenged image because historically it's been over-cropped with high yields, and like any grape, it can produce rather thin wines that are high in acid and lacking in body. That thinness resulted in the well-known Kir cocktail—adding sweetness from crème de cassis produced nearby, it created a perfect complement to the wine. When treated well by serious producers who are really focused on quality, however, Aligoté PHOTO: EVAN SUNG PHOTO: EVAN SUNG We asked Daniel Johnnes, Wine Director for Daniel Boulud's Dinex Group, proprietor of Daniel Johnnes Wines and founder of the annual celebration of La Paulée de Bourgogne, if the Côte Chalonnaise is a good "Plan B" for Bourgogne, and he replied, "I think it should be a Plan A!" "Fresh, white fruit, slightly iodine and saline minerality. The palate is light and fresh with good soft texture finishing with bright acidity. This is a straightforward wine without pretention and very enjoyable as an aperitif or with light seafood," abridges Daniel Johnnes at Daniel Boulud in NYC upon tasting the singular Aubert et Pamela de Villaine 2014 Bouzeron. "People are looking for value in Bourgogne, and when you have the hand of a serious winemaker like [Aubert de Villaine], there are some noble, accessible wines."