Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/711666
42 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 { somm journal seminar series } Nicole Hitchcock of J Vineyards & Winery. USA: Russian River Valley Harkening back to the conversation about different yeasts, Nicole Hitchcock of J Vineyards & Winery, which in early 2015 was acquired by E&J Gallo, presented a snapshot of the wine - maker as a kind of terroirista, tasked with blending together the various ingredients from different appellations, to create a wine that speaks to multiple terroirs. Hitchcock sees a profound difference in Pinot Noir from the same site, depending upon the yeasts used. The J Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma ($40)—a voluptuous wine bursting with red cherry, strawberry and licorice spice with a round, plush mouthfeel, a burnt-orange-peel finish and zippy acidity to boot—is a complete package, blended together with fruit sourced from four different vineyards in the Russian River Valley AVA. Hitchcock said that Pinot Noir from their Robert Thomas Vineyard off Westside Road, where it's a bit cooler, with allu - vial gravel, clay and loam soils, tends to "impart nice bright acidity." Further south, Pinot is sourced from Canfield Vineyard is "border- line Sonoma Coast, and an even cooler climate," she explained. "Pinot clones 943, 777 and Pommard are planted on Goldridge soils, and I get leather, cigar box and savory character, with bright acid—profoundly different from the northern parts of the appellation." B-----------------------------------------------------------� Rita Marques from Conceito Vinhos. PORTUGAL: Douro Valley Jumping the pond from New World to Old World, Rita Marques, the owner and winemaker of Conceito Vinhos, which is located in Portugal's Douro Valley and is imported by M Imports, LLC, also preached on the importance of distinction within vineyards. Her Conceito 2012 Red Wine, Douro, Portugal ($60) is a field blend of 20 dif - ferent varieties from vines that are 90 years old, planted in schist soils over 1,300 feet in elevation. It's a complex wine, fruit-driven, with savory spice character, hints of tof - fee and caramel, chalky and woody tannins and refreshing acidity. "We pick them altogether," said Marques, adding that she prefers not to inoculate but chooses to "ferment with wild yeasts because we believe that if you take care of soils, that's the best way to show your terroir." Marks was enamored by the wine's acidity, and Marques explained that making a wine with great acidity is all about finding the best microclimate, given the size of the Douro.