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114 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 Señorío de Rubiós Robaliño 2015 Albariño, Condado do Tea Established in 2003, Señorío de Rubiós currently has 105 partners working together to combine traditional and modern values in their wine - making. The Miño River runs through Señorío de Rubiós in the Condado do Tea sub-zone. With innovation comes a respect for the natural expression of Albariño, driven by meticulous viticulture and strict harvest standards. Just ripe stone fruit: apricot, white nectarine and cinnamon spice. On the palate, white flowers, chamomile tea, lavender and ripe yellow apple and a bright, citrusy finish with good weight on the mid-palate. —AG Altos de Torona Rosal 2015, Rías Baixas Altos de Torona is a 250-acre vineyard and winery located on the slope of Mount Galelo in the Tomiño area of Pontevedra. Although near the Atlantic and the Miño River, the estate' s mid-slope location protects it from the moisture of the val - ley and the extreme cold of the summit. A southern orientation ensures ample sunshine for healthy ripening of the grapes. A honeysuckled, tropical like nose, even some banana. On the palate, white peaches, tangerine and a pithy finish on this blend that touts itself as a "triple varietal," including Albariño, Caiño and Louriero. —JABS Condes de Albarei 2015 Albariño, Val do Salnés Condes de Albarei was founded in 1988 by a small group of vine growers from the Salnés Valley. The first Spanish white wine to earn a Gold Medal at the Challenge International du Vin in Bordeaux in 1991, Condes de Albarei continues to earn the highest recognition in international competitions. Smells like the seashore. Salt, sand, lemon rind and under-ripe white peach. Riper citrus on the palate, like tangerine with apricot pit and hint of mind on a mineral-laden finish. 100% Albariño, free-run juice. —AG Rectoral do Umia Viñabade 2014 Albariño, Rías Baixas Rectoral do Umia is located in the Salnés sub-zone of DO Rías Baixas, where the Albariño grape is known for its unparalleled quality and concentration. Rectoral do Umia was founded in 2009 by the Bodegas Gallegas Group, and benefits from the group's deep, collective experience acquired over more than 50 years in the wine industry. Green pineapple, yellow apple and under-ripe pear to start and yet overall this 100% Albariño offers a citrusy, clean palate. —AG La Val 2014 Albariño, Condado do Tea La Val, founded in 1985, was one of the first wineries in the region to source grapes only from its own vineyards. These vineyards span more than 148 acres in the sub- region of Condado do Tea and O Rosal, and are divided into four estates located in the villages of Salvatierra de Miño, As Neves and Tui, where they enjoy a very favorable microclimate that allows for healthy ripening of the grapes. The show opens with green apple, but then there is a secondary character of lemon blossom along with a mineral driven through-line in this 100% Albariño from three choice estate vineyards in Condado do Tea. —JABS The People: Wine & Culture The history of the Rías Baixas DO dates back to 1980, when an official denomi - nation was created specifically for the Albariño grape variety. When Spain entered the European Union in 1986, however, the denomination was changed to Rías Baixas, as E.U. wine laws did not recognize a DO named for a single grape variety. Since 1988, the DO has complied with all Spanish and E.U. wine regulations. The Rías Baixas DO is regulated by the Consejo Regulador, a local governing body that ensures adherence to permit - ted grape varieties, viticultural practices, winemaking and aging procedures. Wines labeled with one of the north - ern subzones (Val do Salnés and Ribiera do Ulla) must contain a minimum of 70% Albariño. The southern subzone (O Rosal and Condado do Tea) specifies 70% Albariño and any blend of Loureira or Treixadura. The DO of Rías Baixas permits the following types of wines: Rías Baixas Albariño – must be 100% Albariño; sourced from any sub-region Rías Baixas Salnés – 100% Salnés Rías Baixas Condado – 100% Condado Rías Baixas Rosal – 100% Rosal Rías Baixas Barrica – wines aged in oak, can be red or white Rías Baixas Tinto – red wine, less than 1 % of production Rías Baixas – 100% sourced from the DO Rías Baixas Rías Baixas Espumoso – sparkling wine, limited production Viticulture Planting Albariño at the proper height and exposure to ensure even, healthy ripening is essential to quality. Vines are traditionally widely spaced and trained on stone pergolas hewn of the same granite as the soils below. To counter the region's rainfall and humidity, most vines are trained on a wire trellis called a parra anchored by granite posts. Parras