The SOMM Journal

August / September 2016

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v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v 106 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 According to Mike Sinor, Director of Winemaking at Ancient Peaks in Paso Robles, "Unquestionably, sustainable grape growing results in grapes that are not just more expressive in fruit charac - ter, but also with stronger sense of place, or typicity. For Ancient Peaks, this means we can compete by offering wines with their own unique structure and flavor— differences our customers can grasp and appreciate. It's no secret—more vivid wine equals increased sales. That's the entire purpose of sustainability—to make a long lasting impact on your environ - ment and quality of your product, to the benefit of your employees and long term success of your business." Another Paso Robles winemaker, Kevin Sass of Halter Ranch, explains the "people" element of SIP Certified in these terms: "You can't over-emphasize the social equity aspect of SIP. We have ten tractor drivers who get paid vacations and benefits like 401(k)s, the same way as admin and wine - making staff. For seasonal workers, we offer quality housing, car pools, etc. SIP awards points and bonus points for all of this, and in the long run we benefit from the skill level. As much as the grapes in the field, or how we conserve power through sky - The SIP Certified seal on a Halter Ranch Syrah bottle. PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v Bien Nacido Vineyards Along the eastern slopes of Santa Maria Valley, where Santa Barbara County winegrowing first began in the mid-1960s, Bien Nacido's Vineyard Manager Chris Hammell put down his guitar long enough to talk about SIP Certified's impact on this iconic vineyard: "You can be Romanée-Conti, and be blessed with the perfect vintage, but you'd still fail if you're missing the right people—they're the ones who make sure your vineyard is not inundated with mildew, oidium, botrytis, etc. You need people to make the right decisions about when and how to prune, drop fruit, pull leaves, cultivate healthy soil necessary for quality grapes. One of the unique things about SIP is the way it's written, where people are just as important as the other two major concerns: planet and profitability. "That's why Bien Nacido was committed to sustainable practices even before I got here 15 years ago. In the beginning there were guidelines with fewer specifics, but SIP has helped establish best operating procedures down to every last detail—little things that I might often miss, because there's always so much to think about. You can ask yourself the basic question: If we go through all this trouble, stop looking for easy ways out with pesticides or herbicides, does this actually make better wines? But if you want to be SIP Certified, the question is moot. Shortcuts are never an option—and there's value in that kind of discipline." Nicholas Miller, fifth-generation owner of Bien Nacido and nearby Solomon Hills Vineyards, adds, "Our family has always strived to make sustainable decisions for future generations. SIP has become a tangible vehicle for us to communicate that—particularly to our winery/clients, nearly 70 of them buying from the 160 planted acres in our two estates." "Great wines and winemakers have always been associated with Bien Nacido," says Hammell. "SIP doesn't let us take anything for granted. I'm a big SIP guy because our values fall right in line with theirs. We don't cut corners because Bien Nacido is not known for that. But it's also a matter of fundamental values—because we know that things like employing harsh fertilizers, which sterilize the soil and leach into the water that our kids and neighbors drink, are never a good thing. Damn right, SIP is important!" Bien Nacido Vineyards 2013 Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley Crafted from Bien Nacido's oldest, own-rooted plantings (Wente Clone 04, planted in 1973); citrus flower and lemon drop nose with the thinnest veil of creamy oak; sleek, silky, elongated, snappy-edged medium body, finishing with mineral and citrus sensations. Bien Nacido Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley Plummy, raspberry perfume with an herbal core, deepened by sweet-spiced French oak; proportionate, medium weight, bright - ened by fresh, natural tasting acidity. Vineyard Manager Chris Hammell at Bien Nacido Vineyards. PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO

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