The SOMM Journal

August / September 2016

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{ }  55 1600s. He is generally regarded as the top producer in the region. He and Vincent Dauvissat share the same views on sus- tainability, and in order to reduce carbon footprint, Thierry Richoux sometimes works Vincent's vines or the two share their equipment. He believes in long aging for his wines, at least one year in tank and another full year in foudres (80 hectoliters barrel). The wines are age-worthy and show best after seeing some air. I love to decant them prior to serving." Seven significant wines from six respected producers: It's interesting—we talk about terroir in Bourgogne because it's so impor - tant how terroir defines the expression of the wine, but the hand of the winemaker has almost as large a role. If we heed the advice from the sommeliers' discerning selections, seeking out lesser-known wines from Bourgogne produced by reputable winemakers promises great value. Optimal Pairings Aubert et Pamela de Villaine 2014 Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Digoine Rouge "You can drink this on its own and with grilled fish—an oily fish like salmon would be great—that acidity would cut through the oiliness. If you have this wine with a dish that has a hint of citrus—like roast chicken with grilled lemons, all of the sudden the acidity of the wine is going to be polished and softened." —Daniel Johnnes Camille Giroud 2012 Marsannay Les Longeroies "A lot of people shy away from red with pho, but the salinity in the wine would be great with it. I also love a strong, soft cheese with this style of wine. Especially with a wine just few years old, the developing fruit complements the creaminess while the persistent acidity contrasts the richness of the cheese." —Dave Lund Vincent Dauvissat 2014 Petit Chablis "Oysters is a classic pairing, escargot is deli - cious. On the menu at RN74 we have a hand-cut chitarra pasta with uni and braised clam that is an amazing pairing. But my secret guilty pleasure is fried chicken; it abso- lutely crushes it with Petit Chablis." —David Castleberry "A lot of people know the major appellations, so I like to be able to offer wines from the back roads of Bourgogne that can go up against the best of them," lends David Castleberry, Lead Sommelier at RN74 in San Francisco. PHOTO: HARDY WILSON David Castleberry from RN74 in San Francisco describes Vincent Dauvissat 2014 Petit Chablis: "Bright citrus, lime leaf, orange blossom and oyster shell. Clean, crisp flavors with layers of com- plexity that outperform the appellation. The finish is taut, mineral laden and possesses a beautiful sense of purity."

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