Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/701904
july 2016 / the tasting panel / 73 july 2016 / the tasting panel / 73 Vino de Pago (or DO Pago) status is one of the highest honors that can be bestowed upon a Spanish wine producer—there are currently only 17 estates allowed to use this designation. Arínzano, in the northern region of Navarra, was granted DO Pago status in 2007 under the ownership of the Chivite family. It was the first such classification to be granted in all of northern Spain. Arínzano was sold in 2015 to the Stoli Group and became part of its Prestige Wine Portfolio. The vineyards of Arínzano were planted in 1988, but the site boasts 1,000 years of winemaking history dating back to the 11th century. The estate has the perfect confluence of cooling influences from the Atlantic Ocean and rocky, hillside vineyards planted at 1,600 feet of elevation. The bodega itself is an architectural wonder designed by renowned Spanish architect Rafael Moneo (who also designed L.A.'s Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels). Realizing they had acquired a jewel, Stoli Group turned to the experienced and accomplished winemaker Manuel Louzada to reinvigorate the property. Louzada had achieved much success in the past with Bodegas Numanthia in Toro and, prior to that, at Cheval des Andes as well as Chandon in Argentina. Louzada grew up in a multigenerational Portuguese wine family. He began tasting with his grandfather at age five. Decades of experience have taught him to respect the delicate balance between terroir and technique. To Louzada, wine is made in the vineyard, and he has focused most of his efforts there. "It is a bal- ance between the expression of the vineyard and the expression of the winemaker," he says. "The challenge is to balance the perfect winemaking style with a true expression of the terroir." If the tasting in Los Angeles is any indication of where Arínzano is headed under Louzada, we should expect this DO Pago producer to be a major player and iconoclastic leader in Spanish wine. Louzada shows a deft hand not only with Tempranillo, but with Bordeaux varietals. He has also revealed two sophisticated Chardonnays and a fascinating rosé from Tempranillo. He is creat- ing wines of impeccable structure and elegance while exhibiting bold personality. His complete vision for the project seems to renew the original optimism present at Arínzano. His aim: "To make one of the most exceptional wines in Spain." In regard to the DO Pago status, Louzada adds, "I'm totally convinced that the Pago philosophy and the DO Pago is the future of Spanish wine." TASTING NOTES All prices are suggested retail. Hacienda de Arínzano 2015 Rosé ($19.99) 100% Tempranillo Picked from the coolest parcel of Tempranillo, this rosé stems from a rosé-dedicated vineyard and is made from free-run juice. It has mouth- watering flavors of ripe pink grapefruit, freshly ground pink peppercorns, red apple skin and cranberry. It is a tart and refreshing wine that seduces you on the nose and impresses you on the palate. Hacienda de Arínzano 2014 White ($19.99) 100% Chardonnay A modern but very well-balanced Chardonnay that is classy and delicious. The wine is widely accessible in style but may impress discerning aficionados as well. This Chardonnay boasts citrus meringue, lemon zest and a lightly toasted character with pleasing mouthfeel. Hacienda de Arínzano 2011 Red ($24.99) 80% Tempranillo, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon Balanced, silky, plush and velvety with notes of black fruit, cinnamon, smoke and roasted coffee. This is a well-made, modern wine that has one foot in the Old World. Its best features are not only the exceptional fruit but the Old World expression of terroir. Arínzano 2010 Gran Vino White ($79) 100% Chardonnay The wine that inspired Louzada the most—it is reminiscent of Puligny-Montrachet with a freshness that awakens and enlivens the palate. With five years of age, it is maturing perfectly. Its complex- ity, depth, aroma and length engage the senses. It is a very well-made and refined wine that can rival any of the best Chardonnay-based wines made on the planet. Arínzano 2008 La Casona ($39.99) 75% Tempranillo, 25% Merlot Named after the property's picturesque guest house, La Casona is beautifully round with red cherry, raspberry jam and chocolate dust. Nice tension in the palate with a firmer tannin structure. The wine exhibits some compelling grip and Bordeaux-like background, but again, is widely accessible for its plush fruit quality. Arínzano 2008 Gran Vino Red ($99) 100% Tempranillo Made from 100% Tempranillo, it is highly complex, perfectly structured and impressively powerful. The wine shows muscle and grace with deep garnet color. Aromas of black plum, currant and anise are complemented by notes of leather and pipe-tobacco. This is a very well-made and special wine. Sommelier Albert Letizia and Wine Director Rachel Macalisang of The Bazaar by José Andrés and The Tasting Panel's Executive Editor, David Gadd, listen as Manuel Louzada discusses the Arínzano wines.