Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/65124
DEPARTMENT HEADER Wine #5: An Elegant Vintage The Reveal: Bodegas Comenge 2006 ($22) 100% Tempranillo Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA J aime Comenge founded his winery in 1999 to honor his father, Don Miguel, who authored a book on Spanish enol- ogy practices in 1947—a text still used today by young winemaking students. So labor-intensive is the hand-picked fruit, a triple selection ensures that only the ripest and healthiest Tempranillo grapes go into the patented natural yeast fermentation process. Comenge winemaker Rafael Cuerda talks about the 2006 vintage as being of "true elegance." "A ripe, black-fruited beauty with notes of sage, basil and olives. Density and ripeness are marked by a granite core." —Meridith May "Very complex: smoke and venison nose—brooding with dried fruits, plums and smooth, integrated tannins." – Michael Ploetz Wine #7: The First in Ribera The Reveal: Protos 2007 Crianza ($28) 100% Tempranillo Winebow, Montvale, NJ P rotos is Greek for "the first," and indeed this was Ribera del Duero's first winery, founded in 1927. The Crianza is age 14 months in American and French oak and 12 more in bottle—one must be patient, but Protos is worth the wait. A modern building, designed by Sir Richard Rogers, includes underground cellars surrounded by chalk and limestone soil. "A perfect pairing for jamón ibérico: brightest cherry hue (and flavor) with hot spice, integrated tannins and black fruits." —Bretton Lammi "Inviting aromas of baked cherry pie and berry compote. Youthful, gripping tannins. Good now—will get better with age." —Douglas Kim 78 / the tasting panel / may 2012 Wine #6: Classic Ribera The Reveal: Tinto Pesquera 2009 ($36) 100% Tempranillo Classical Wines from Spain, Seattle, WA A living legend, Alejandro Fernández is regarded as the "Master of the Tempranillo," and with a modern winery and 500 acres of vines planted on deep gravel throughout his estate, he still owns a 16th-century wine press. The wine is aged for 18 months in American oak and six months in the bottle. "Subtle nose of alfalfa, lavender, sage and roses: a traditional Spanish red with a wonderful spicy finish. This is the best palate for me." —Lindsey Whipple "Fine grained tannins, mountain herbs and a ripe complexity: firm, jammy, fresh and bright." —Lucas Paya Wine #8: Garagiste Ribera The Reveal: JC Vizcarra 2009 ($45) 100% Tempranillo Olé Imports LLC, New Rochelle, NY J uan Carlos ("JC") Vizcarra is not only considered one of Ribera's top producers, but also a pioneer in the garagiste movement in Spain. Gentle practices, gravity-flow winemaking and careful vineyard work aim toward wines with a softer, rounder character. The fruit comes from high elevations and the restrained use of oak respects the elegance—and super ageability—that Vizcarra always seeks. Shy and seductive on the nose, but robust and demanding on the palate. This is why I love the Ribera: Pair it with lamb or burgers, it will offer pleasure with hearty meals." —Dean Wachstetter "Knock-your-socks-off nose: stunning fresh, juicy fruit. Becomes creamier on the palate with sour-tart cherries and cranberries, finishing with a coffee-pastry note." —Meridith May Wine #9: An Enduring Name in Spain The Reveal: Torres "Celeste" 2008 ($17) 100% Tempranillo Miguel Torres USA, Key Biscayne, FL T he Torres family name, associated with the Penedés region in Spain, traces its connection to wine for over three centuries. From the producer's "experimental" small- production boutique winery in Ribera, Celeste is aged for 12 months on the lees until bottled. "Earth and smoke with floral jasmine notes— and some saltiness. The palate is a mix of red fruits, juicy and lush, moving to more intense cranberry and black currants." —Chloe Helfand "Complex nose with some 'animal' character—more Burgundian with boldness and depth. Becomes increasingly more elegant with a round, plushy texture and firm tannins." —Lucas Paya