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THE BEVERAGE MANAGER John Ricklefs A by Richard Carleton Hacker urea, the eclectic, comfortably- styled restaurant created as part of the $35 million renovation of the Stanford Court Renaissance Hotel in San Francisco, could not be more aptly named. Aurea is Latin for "gold," and refl ects the sparkling elegance that inspired the open, Tiffany-styled domed restaurant, with its glass encased fl oor-to-ceiling "wall of wines." In addition, its adjoining bar, which serves as a café by day, transforms into a warm, open cocktail lounge at night. There couldn't be a more suitable location for Aurea, on the Nob Hill site where ex-governor (and later, senator) Leland Stanford built his man- sion in the 1870s. Further tying in with Aurea's timely theme, it was 143 years ago this month, on May 10, 1869 at Promontory Point, Utah, that Stanford, Aurea's Executive Chef Werner Albrecht's version of the tuna tartare, with citrus salad and taro chips. as president of the Central Pacifi c Railroad, drove the golden spike that completed the transcontinental railroad. "Before the renovation and birth of Aurea," says John Ricklefs, Food & Beverage Operations Manager for the Marriot-operated property, "the hotel's restaurant didn't have a name or personality. Now 40 percent of our clientele are repeat customers from the city, and the rest of our business comes from hotel guests. Refl ecting our location, our menu is California-focused. The core values of Renaissance are 'Intriguing, Indigenous, Independent,' and these 40 / the tasting panel / may 2012 On the Aer with VINTURI THE BEVERAGE PROGRAM AT AUREA HELPS GIVE THE RESTAURANT AT SAN FRANCISCO'S STANFORD COURT HOTEL A PERSONALITY With such avant-garde promo- tions, Aurea seemed perfect for Ricklefs's evaluation of the Vinturi Spirit Aerator, with its integrated jigger featuring 1, 1½ and 2 ounce markings. Using (rı)1 rye whiskey, with its sweet dried fruit and hint of spice, Ricklefs poured 1½ jiggers into the Vinturi, and pressed the button, allowing the spirit to fl ow into a glass. "It defi nitely gives the rye whiskey a different mouthfeel," noted Ricklefs, commenting that it also lessened the heat of (rı)1 's 90 proof and gave it a gentler fi nish. "What I also like about the Vinturi is that it adds an element of tableside service and a heightened experi- ence of showmanship and engag- ing the guests in conversation. I can see it used both at the bar and tableside, just as we're bringing back tableside service with our new paella. The Vinturi falls right into that same category. " John Ricklefs, F&B/Operations Manager at Aurea in San Francisco's Stanford Court Hotel. guide our food, menu and bever- age operations. For example, our Executive Chef, Werner Albrecht, frequents local farmer's markets to source the freshest ingredients. Plus, being this close to Napa and Sonoma gives us the ability to bring in some great wines." In addition to 1,200 cellared bottles, Aurea offers 40 wines by the glass. The cocktail list is equally impres- sive, especially Aurea's signature Barrel-Aged Manhattan, featuring Four Roses Single Barrel Bourbon, Carpano Sweet Vermouth and Marie Brizard Grand Orange Liqueur. After pre-mixing, the ingredients are aged in three-liter American white oak barrels for fi ve weeks. The smaller barrels accelerate aging, as more liquid contacts the wood. Plus, displaying the barrels on the back bar inspires guests' curiosity, which translates into sales. A barrel-aged Negroni is next. With popular items such as housemade gnudi with wild mush- rooms, and Kurobuta pork chops with sweet potato purée, plus a stellar wine and spirits program, Aurea has indeed struck gold. John Ricklefs, Food & Beverage Operations Manager for Aurea, gives the Vinturi Spirit Aerator an on-premise tryout. PHOTO: RICHARD CARLETON HACKER PHOTO: REBECCA WILKOWSKI