The Tasting Panel magazine

May 2012

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Wine #1: Easy on the Oak The Reveal: Bodegas Barco de Piedra 2010 ($13) 100% Tempranillo from 25-year-old vines Olé Imports LLC, New Rochelle, NY W orking in a presti- gious singular district in the western part of Ribera del Duero, Barco de Piedra winmeaker Alvaro Trigueros understands that the region already has plenty of tannins, so a minimal of oak aging is what he delivered in making this wine. A great value, this youthful soul comes from limestone and sandy clay soils and moderate temperatures. Preparing Paella at JALEO is a daily ritual. Wine #3: True Grit The Reveal: Isaac Fernández 2009 Finca la Mata ($35) 100% Tempranillo Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA V eteran Ribera winemaker Isaac Fernández's newest venture is Finca La Mata from two different sandy clay vineyard sites, with aver- age aged vines of 60 years. Aged in French and American oak barrels for eight months, the wine shows a dry, gritty dustiness that speaks of ageability. "Sage, violets and black fruit (that can be quite jammy rich) with a sweet oak finish; clean and full bodied." —Gabriel Garcia "Vanilla and coconut aromas—almost sugar-powdered—with sweet, red fruit and bruised strawberry. Curry, nutmeg and cinnamon are accented with a nice acid structure. I loved the palate of this wine." —Lindsey Whipple "Aromas of sweet cherries and dried cranberries, licorice and leather are nicely positioned with dry, tart, structured tannins and mild toasty oak." —Douglas Kim "Pomegranates in the distance echo a bright, young red-fruit profile with fresh pink flowers, brooding cranberries and cherry up front." —Chloe Helfand Wine #2: Rich in Minerality The Reveal: Finca Torremilanos 2009 Montecastrillo Roble ($45) 90% Tempranillo/10% Cabernet Sauvignon Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA O ne of the first wineries to create a vino de autor, Finca Torremilanos uses Bordeaux grapes with its Tempranillo. In this iteration, the 2009 Montecastrillo is 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 90% Tempranillo. The deep soils contain lime- stone but in some of the vineyards, gravel dominates, creating a mineral richness, almost a bitter quality, in this wine. "Fruit forward nose of burnt cherries and blackberry—almost forest-fire; tannins are chalky. Finishes with deep plum." —Bretton Lammi "From the subtle flint nose to the complex terroir notes of minerality, the bright red fruit manages to show through tight tannins with a long finish." —Derick Rossmiller Wine #4: Modern Ribera The Reveal: Y: Psi 2009 ($30) 100% Tempranillo The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA D anish winemaker Peter Sisseck (of legendary Pingus) has proved Ribera's potential, but he noticed that local farming practices were often poor. Restoration of soil and improvement of viticulture took both passion and devotion for this master as he set out to engage growers in the community, supplying technical advice and ultimately rewarding them with the ability to gain high prices for their fruit. Using virtually no new wood, Sisseck's new project, named for the Greek letter Y: Psi, sources fruit from multiple growers and utilizes large and small oak casks and cement tanks to create "early" wines of subtly, delicacy and modest price. "A focused, genuinely great expression of mingled violet, raspberry and hibiscus." —Kimberley Drake "Brilliant complexity and balance, even with those dark and brooding notes on the nose. Coffee and lavender keep developing throughout the lively palate." —Dean Wachstetter may 2012 / the tasting panel / 77

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